JustBeginning
Beginner's guide

So you're getting into watercolor painting

Watercolor is famously 'difficult' in ways that dissolve once you understand what the medium is actually doing. Water does most of the work — your job is to learn to guide it rather than fight it. The barrier to a beautiful first painting is lower than you think; the barrier to reliable control is higher. Here's how to set yourself up correctly from the start.

By The JustBeginning Editors · Published May 8, 2026
Also from us Your first paintings in watercolor → Watercolor has a reputation for being unforgiving. The reputation is wrong — it's the most forgiving medium once you understand what it's doing. Water does most of the work. Your job is to learn to guide it, not control it. Here's what your first sessions look like, from your first flat wash to the painting where something finally goes right.
Artist painting with watercolors and colored pencils on wooden table.

Photo by Vitaly Gariev on Unsplash

The 60-second version

If you only buy 3 things to start:

  1. Winsor & Newton Cotman Watercolor Paint Set, 12 Tubes — The student-grade set that actually works — correct pigment, correct price, and you won't outgrow it quickly.
  2. Strathmore 400 Series Watercolor Pad, 9x12 inch, 12 Sheets — The right paper for learning — 140lb cold press takes washes without warping, erases gently, acid-free.
  3. Princeton Neptune 4750 Series Watercolor Brush Set, 4 Brushes — The best synthetic watercolor brushes at this price — soft, springy, holds water the way sable does.
Budget total
$80
Typical total
$130
The low end covers Sakura Koi pans, Canson XL paper, Cotman brushes, and a plastic palette. The spread is mostly in brushes (Cotman $36 vs. Princeton Neptune $48) and paper (Canson $14 vs. Arches block $45).
Before you buy anything

A few things worth knowing first

Paper is the most important decision in watercolor, and the one beginners most often skip. Painting on printer paper or cheap sketch pads is why most people conclude they can't do watercolor — the paper absorbs water too fast, warps immediately, and doesn't let you lift or move pigment after it's down. Proper 140lb watercolor paper changes everything. Buy it first.

Tubes and pans are different formats for the same paint. Tubes squeeze out fresh, moist pigment for each session — better for larger washes and studio painting. Pans are dried paint compressed into small cakes that you re-wet with a brush — better for travel and quick sketching. Both work; your choice depends on how you imagine yourself painting. Most beginners do better with tubes.

Resist buying more colors. The instinct is to get a large set with 24 or 36 colors so you're 'covered.' The actual skill of watercolor is color mixing — learning to reach any color from a small set of primaries. A 12-color set of quality paint teaches you more and produces better results than a 36-color set of weak paint. Start small, mix deliberately.

The gear

What you actually need

assorted-color soft-tube lot on white textile

Photo by Kasturi Roy on Unsplash

Paints

Watercolor paint comes in tubes (moist paste you squeeze out fresh) and pans (dried cakes you re-wet). Tubes give you more pigment per dollar and work better for large washes; pans are more convenient for travel and field sketching. Both Winsor & Newton Cotman (student grade) and Daniel Smith (artist grade) are worth recommending — the quality gap is real, but Cotman is genuinely capable paint, not a toy.

Paints — what's the difference?

A few common shapes, each making a different trade.

Tubes

Fresh, moist pigment. Better for studio painting and large washes.

Format
Squeeze out as needed, keep palette covered between sessions
Best for
Studio painting, large washes, mixing custom colors
Lifespan
Indefinite if sealed; re-wet if dried in palette

Best for Most beginners who'll be painting at a desk or table — tubes give you more control over paint quantity and mix more easily into large washes

Tradeoff Requires a palette to squeeze onto; less convenient for outdoor/travel use

↓ See our pick
Pans

Pre-dried cakes you re-wet with a brush. More portable, less setup.

Format
Compact set with built-in mixing lid, no separate palette needed
Best for
Travel, outdoor sketching, quick studies
Lifespan
Very long — dry down and re-wet as needed

Best for Watercolor sketchers who want to paint outside, while traveling, or without setup/cleanup time

Tradeoff Harder to get large amounts of pigment for washes; colors can get muddy from cross-contamination in compact sets

↓ See our pick
Winsor & Newton Cotman Watercolor Paint Set, 12 Tubes Best starter
Winsor & Newton

Winsor & Newton Cotman Watercolor Paint Set, 12 Tubes

$$

Cotman is the most recommended beginner watercolor line for a reason: correctly formulated pigments, smooth tube paint that flows well, and a 12-color range covering the basics. The set includes French Ultramarine, Phthalo Blue, Cadmium Red Hue, Yellow Ochre — the four most useful colors for a beginner. Comes with a small brush. Around $37.

Watch out for: The 'Hue' colors (Cadmium Red Hue, etc.) are pigment substitutes — they work fine. Don't buy additional colors until you've mixed through the core set and identified what you're actually missing.

See on Amazon →
Sakura Koi Watercolors Field Sketch Set, 24 Colors Budget pick
Sakura

Sakura Koi Watercolors Field Sketch Set, 24 Colors

$

The Koi 24-color field sketch set is the best pan set for beginners who want to paint outside or on the go. Pre-loaded pans, a built-in mixing lid, a water brush included — everything for location sketching in one compact kit. The color selection covers landscape and still life well. Under $20.

Watch out for: Pans dry hard between sessions — re-wet with a spray bottle or a brush dipped in clean water before mixing. Great for quick sketching; harder than tubes for large background washes.

See on Amazon →
Daniel Smith Extra Fine Essentials Watercolor Set, 6 Tubes Upgrade pick
Daniel Smith

Daniel Smith Extra Fine Essentials Watercolor Set, 6 Tubes

$$$

Artist-grade pigments that behave better than student grade — stronger tinting strength, cleaner mixing, more predictable granulation. The Essentials set's six colors cover the full spectrum through mixing. More expensive per tube, but the pigment quality changes how the paint handles, especially in granulating and lifting characteristics. Around $32.

Watch out for: Six colors sounds limiting — it isn't. These are formulated to mix cleanly into a full spectrum. Skip buying extra colors until you've exhausted the mixing possibilities of these six.

See on Amazon →
a white piece of paper on a table

Photo by Jaz de Valle on Unsplash

Paper

Watercolor paper is not optional. The difference between 140lb watercolor paper and regular sketch paper is the difference between the medium working and not working — proper paper accepts wet washes without immediate warping, allows you to push pigment around while wet, and lets you lift color back out with a damp brush. The upgrade path from student to professional paper (Arches) is one of the biggest skill jumps in watercolor, even though your technique hasn't changed.

Strathmore 400 Series Watercolor Pad, 9x12 inch, 12 Sheets Best starter
Strathmore

Strathmore 400 Series Watercolor Pad, 9x12 inch, 12 Sheets

$

Strathmore's 400 Series Watercolor Pad is the right starting paper — 140lb cold-press, acid-free, handles wet washes without excessive warping. Available at every art supply store, good consistency between sheets. 12 sheets give you enough to practice fundamentals without making each sheet feel precious. Around $14.

Watch out for: Only 12 sheets per pad — fewer than sketch pads. Wire binding doesn't hold paper flat under heavy washes; tape corners to a board before painting for best results.

See on Amazon →
Canson XL Series Watercolor Pad, 9x12 inch, 30 Sheets Budget pick
Canson

Canson XL Series Watercolor Pad, 9x12 inch, 30 Sheets

$

30 sheets at $14 makes the Canson XL the practice pad — use it for exercises, color mixing studies, and anything you're not precious about. The 140lb weight handles moderate washes without catastrophic warping. More sheets for the same price as Strathmore means you'll use it aggressively, which is exactly right for learning.

Watch out for: Wood-pulp paper, not cotton — works well but absorbs water differently than professional cotton paper. Buy one Arches block when you're ready to feel the difference.

See on Amazon →
Arches Watercolor Paper Block, Cold Press, 9x12 inch, 140lb Upgrade pick
Arches

Arches Watercolor Paper Block, Cold Press, 9x12 inch, 140lb

$$$

Arches is the gold standard in watercolor paper. 100% cotton, cold press — it accepts washes differently than wood-pulp paper, allows you to lift pigment back out, and doesn't warp under heavy water. Painting on Arches for the first time is revelatory for anyone who's been struggling with paper that fights the medium. Around $45 for a 15-sheet block.

Watch out for: The block format (sheets glued on all edges) keeps paper flat without tape. Slide a palette knife under the edge to separate sheets when dry. Don't force it while wet.

See on Amazon →
Paintbrush resting on a colorful art palette

Photo by Nicole Almendrada on Unsplash

Brushes

Watercolor brushes hold water and release it as you paint — the brush's ability to maintain a point while loaded with water is what defines quality. Natural sable brushes are the traditional choice; good synthetics now match their performance at a fraction of the price. You need three shapes to start: a large round for washes, a medium round for general painting, and a small round for detail. Everything else follows.

Princeton Neptune 4750 Series Watercolor Brush Set, 4 Brushes Best starter
Princeton

Princeton Neptune 4750 Series Watercolor Brush Set, 4 Brushes

$$

The Neptune 4750 is the best synthetic watercolor brush at this price — the soft squirrel-like fiber holds water well and releases it smoothly, with enough spring to maintain tip shape. The set includes a 3/4-inch aquarelle flat (for washes), plus rounds in sizes 2, 6, and 10. These brushes outperform their price and last years with proper care.

Watch out for: The 3/4-inch aquarelle flat is the most versatile brush — use it for washes, backgrounds, wet-on-wet. Don't store brushes tip-down in water; it bends and splits the hairs permanently.

See on Amazon →
Winsor & Newton Cotman Watercolour Brush Pack, 5 Brushes Budget pick
Winsor & Newton

Winsor & Newton Cotman Watercolour Brush Pack, 5 Brushes

$$

Cotman brushes are a capable beginner set — synthetic fiber, short handle, responsive enough for learning technique. A solid starting point if the Neptune set's price is a barrier. The five-brush assortment covers rounds and flats for most beginner needs. Around $36.

Watch out for: Cotman brushes work fine for learning but wear out faster than Princeton Neptune. Good for practice and rough work; plan to upgrade to Princeton Neptune as your technique develops.

See on Amazon →
painting palette lot

Photo by Sarah Brown on Unsplash

Palette & Setup

Three items you need before your first session: a palette to squeeze paint onto and mix on, tape to hold paper flat to a board (critical for tube paint users), and clean water. The palette decision hinges on whether you're using tubes or pans — tube painters need a dedicated mixing surface with wells; pan set painters have mixing built into the lid. If you're buying tubes, the Mijello airtight palette is the one piece of equipment that changes how you work.

Mijello Fusion Airtight Watercolor Palette, 33 Wells Best starter
Mijello

Mijello Fusion Airtight Watercolor Palette, 33 Wells

$

The Mijello Fusion is the standard for watercolor artists who work with tube paints — 33 wells hold a full color range, the airtight lid keeps squeezed paint moist for weeks without hardening, and the large mixing area gives you room to blend without crowding. Squeeze your colors in once and leave them. Around $16.

Watch out for: The airtight lid keeps paints moist indefinitely — leave tube colors in the wells between sessions. Rinse in cold water only; hot water can warp the plastic lid seal.

See on Amazon →
Sweaty Pony 20-Well Watercolor Paint Tray Palette Budget pick
Sweaty Pony

Sweaty Pony 20-Well Watercolor Paint Tray Palette

$

A simple white plastic palette that does the job. 20 wells for color arrangement, a large central mixing area, white surface for accurate color reading. Under $6. Buy this while you figure out your workflow — if you commit to tube paints and want to leave colors set up, upgrade to the Mijello.

Watch out for: Plastic stains permanently from strong pigments like Phthalo Blue — that's fine, it doesn't affect mixing. Wash with dish soap immediately after use to minimize staining.

See on Amazon →
ScotchBlue Original Painter's Tape, 1 Inch Specialty pick
ScotchBlue

ScotchBlue Original Painter's Tape, 1 Inch

$

Tape the corners of your watercolor paper to a firm board before painting — this keeps the paper flat as it wets and dries, and gives you clean white edges when you remove it after. Painter's tape releases cleanly without tearing the paper surface. Under $5. Don't skip this step; flat paper changes how your washes behave.

Watch out for: Apply to a firm board, not directly to a table surface. Tape holds the paper flat — the board holds the paper stable. Remove the tape while the painting is still very slightly damp for cleanest edges.

See on Amazon →
Save your money

What you don't need yet

Beginners get pressured to buy a lot of stuff that doesn't help them play better. Here's what we'd skip on day one.

  • Masking fluid — Masking fluid (liquid frisket) lets you reserve white areas by painting over them before washing. A useful intermediate technique that requires a dedicated cheap brush and specific timing to work correctly. Learn flat washes and basic wet-on-wet first.
  • Cold-press vs. hot-press vs. rough paper variations — Cold press (slightly textured) is the right surface to start on — it's what almost all beginner instruction assumes. Hot press (smooth) and rough (very textured) have specific uses for specific effects. Learn cold press first.
  • Natural sable brushes — Kolinsky sable brushes are the professional standard — incredible water retention, perfect spring, expensive. A quality Princeton Neptune synthetic is indistinguishable in use until you're painting at a level where the difference matters. Not yet.
  • Watercolor pencils or water-soluble crayons — A different medium that requires different techniques. Worth exploring once you're comfortable with pure watercolor — not a shortcut into it.
  • Stretching watercolor paper — Pre-soaking and stapling paper to a board to prevent warping is the traditional professional approach. The Arches block format eliminates the need for this entirely. Tape to board is sufficient for learning.
  • A large color set (24+ colors) — More colors creates the illusion of capability while bypassing the skill of mixing. A 12-color set forces you to mix greens, oranges, and purples from primaries — the foundational skill. Expand your set once you've hit the limits of what you can mix.
First week

Your first seven days

A short, real plan to get from gear-on-doorstep to actually playing.

  1. Set up two water jars — one for rinsing dirty brushes, one for picking up clean water for mixing. This is not optional: painting with contaminated water muddies every color on your palette within minutes. Keep them separated the entire session. · Action
  2. Your first exercise is a flat wash: wet the paper lightly, mix a generous puddle of a single diluted color on your palette (more water than paint), and load your large brush. Work in horizontal strokes from top to bottom, picking up the bead of pigment that forms at the bottom of each stroke with the next pass. The goal is an even, consistent tone across the whole sheet. It will take several attempts — that's normal. · Action
  3. Learn the difference between wet-on-wet and wet-on-dry by doing both back to back. Wet-on-wet: wet the paper first, then drop in pigment — it blooms and bleeds softly. Wet-on-dry: paint onto dry paper — you get crisp, controllable edges. Most paintings use both. The skill is knowing which you want before you touch the brush. · Action
  4. Watch Guthrie Glasson's beginner watercolor series and James Gurney's color and light videos on YouTube. Both are free and more useful than most paid courses for foundational technique. · Learn
  5. The rule that prevents most beginner frustration: stop while the painting is still wet. Overworking a watercolor — adding more paint or moving the brush on a surface that's starting to dry — creates muddy, damaged areas that can't be fixed. When in doubt, put down the brush and let it dry completely before deciding what to add. · Action
FAQ

Common questions

Is watercolor harder than other painting media?

In one specific way: you can't paint light over dark. Once a wash is down and dry, you can't cover it with white paint and redo it (unlike acrylic or oil). That constraint requires planning your light areas from the start rather than adding them later. It's a different way of thinking about painting, not a harder one — but it does require the adjustment.

Why does my watercolor look dull and muddy?

The three main causes: overworking a wet wash (too many brush strokes after the pigment is settling), painting with dirty water, or mixing too many colors in the same area. Watercolor mixing has a limit — two or three colors combine into richness; four or five combine into gray-brown. Mix on your palette, not on the paper.

Do I need artist-grade paints, or are student-grade paints OK to start?

Student-grade (Cotman) is fine to start. The pigment quality is real, the colors mix well, and you won't hit the ceiling of what Cotman can do before you've developed the technique to tell the difference. The upgrade to artist-grade (Daniel Smith, Winsor & Newton Professional) produces noticeable improvements in pigment vibrancy and granulation — but it's a second-year purchase, not a first.

What's the difference between cold press and hot press paper?

Cold press has a slightly textured surface (the texture is what 'cold press' means — the paper is pressed through cold rollers). It accepts washes well and gives watercolor its characteristic grainy, atmospheric quality. Hot press is smooth — better for detailed illustration and precise line work. Start with cold press; hot press is a technique choice, not an upgrade.

What should I paint first?

Simple objects with clear light sources: a lemon, a glass of water, a white coffee mug. These subjects let you focus on washes and values without the complexity of multiple objects or intricate shapes. Landscapes with a clear sky-land division are also good early subjects — one flat wash for the sky, wet-on-wet work for the land.

How do I fix a mistake in watercolor?

While wet: blot with a clean paper towel to lift pigment. After drying: a damp brush can lift light pigment on cotton paper (Arches lifts much more cleanly than wood-pulp paper). After full drying: light-value passages can be painted over with another wash. Dark, saturated areas that are dry are generally permanent — plan light areas before painting, don't try to add them after.

Going further

Where to next

Related hobbies

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Authoritative sources

  • Guthrie Glasson (YouTube) — The most approachable beginner watercolor instruction on YouTube. Clear, practical, and patient — his wet-on-wet and flat wash videos are essential viewing before your first session.
  • Watercolor by Shibasaki (YouTube) — Japanese watercolor master whose real-time painting videos demonstrate wet-on-wet technique at its most elegant. Watching before trying a technique is genuinely useful.
  • r/Watercolor — Active community with pinned beginner resources, critique threads, and regular work-in-progress posts. The community is generous with feedback and the skill range is wide.
  • Gurney Journey — James Gurney's archive on color, light, and painting from life. The most rigorous free resource on painting fundamentals — applies directly to watercolor even though Gurney primarily works in gouache and oil.
  • Wet Canvas (WetCanvas.com) — Long-running watercolor forum with deep archives of technique discussions, reference threads, and critique. The older threads are especially valuable — a decade of answered beginner questions.