Beginner's guide

So you're getting into entomology

Entomology is one of the few hobbies where a $40 net and a weekend afternoon can put ten new species in your collection. The learning curve is real (spreading and pinning correctly takes practice), but the gear is simple, the science is legitimate, and the world is literally swarming with subjects. Here's exactly what you need to start.

By Colin B. · Published June 18, 2026 · Last reviewed June 18, 2026

The 60-second version

If you only buy 3 things to start:

  1. Professional 15-Inch Fine Mesh Aerial Insect Net — A 15-inch fine-mesh aerial net: the first thing you buy, the thing you will use for years.
  2. Phusis Stainless Steel Insect Pins Size 2 (100-count) — Stainless size-2 insect pins: the only pins that will not rust and ruin your specimens.
  3. A Field Guide to Insects: America North of Mexico (Peterson Field Guides) — Peterson Field Guide to Insects: the authoritative North American identification reference.
Budget total
$50
Typical total
$150
A net, pins, and a killing jar runs $50-80 to start. Add a spreading board and a quality display case and you're at $150. One of the cheapest legitimate science hobbies out there.

We earn commission on qualifying Amazon purchases — see our affiliate disclosure. Price tiers and budget totals shown above are editorial estimates; actual Amazon prices vary.

At a glance

Our top pick in each category

The fastest path through this guide — each best-starter pick by category. Scroll for the budget and upgrade alternatives.

CategoryTop pickPriceWhere to buy
Aerial NetsBioQuipProfessional 15-Inch Fine Mesh Aerial Insect Net$$ See on Amazon →
Killing & PreservationCarolina BiologicalCarolina Biological Insect Killing Jar, 8 oz Glass$$ See on Amazon →
Mounting SuppliesPhusisPhusis Stainless Steel Insect Pins Size 2 (100-count)$ See on Amazon →
Display CasesSouthern StarClassic Riker Mount Display Frames for Insects$ See on Amazon →
Field GuidesHoughton MifflinA Field Guide to Insects: America North of Mexico (Peterson Field Guides)$$ See on Amazon →
Before you buy anything

A few things worth knowing first

Check collecting rules before you go anywhere. National parks and many state parks prohibit or restrict insect collecting. Your own backyard, roadside rights-of-way, and managed nature areas with an open-collecting policy are all fine. When in doubt, photograph and release with iNaturalist instead. Your photos still count as verified science observations.

Start with what is abundant, not what is impressive. Backyard moths, garden beetles, and roadside butterflies give you the reps you need at netting and mounting before you risk wasting a rare find. Rare species can wait until your technique is solid.

Do not buy a complete beginner kit from a random Amazon listing. The nets are undersized, the pins corrode, and the spreading boards warp. Buy components separately: a proper net, genuine stainless pins, and a real foam spreading board. It costs about the same and lasts decades.

The gear

What you actually need

Aerial Nets

An aerial net is how you catch flying insects: butterflies, moths, beetles, and hundreds of species that live above waist height. For beginners, three specs matter: mesh fineness (coarser mesh tears butterfly wings), frame diameter (12-inch frames are fine for children; adults want 15-18 inches), and handle construction (collapsible handles travel better; fixed handles give more control). The fine-mesh butterfly net is the right starting point for almost everyone. Sweep nets use heavier canvas and are swept through low vegetation to dislodge beetles, weevils, and true bugs; that is a separate tool you will want after your first season.

Aerial Nets — what's the difference?

A few common shapes, each making a different trade.

Fine Mesh / Butterfly Net

The default choice: lightweight mesh that protects delicate wings.

Mesh
Fine nylon
Frame
15-18 in
Best for
Butterflies, moths, flies

Best for Beginners, butterfly and moth collectors, anyone starting out

Tradeoff Too delicate for sweeping dense vegetation

↓ See our pick
Sweep Net

Heavy canvas for meadow sweeping; finds beetles and bugs in vegetation.

Mesh
Heavy canvas
Frame
15 in
Best for
Beetles, weevils, true bugs

Best for Meadow and hedgerow collecting, beetle and bug specialists

Tradeoff Damages butterfly and moth wings; not for flight insects

↓ See our pick
Aquatic / Kicknet

D-frame net for water beetles and aquatic insect larvae.

Frame
D-shaped
Mesh
Heavy mesh
Best for
Water beetles, dragonfly larvae

Best for Aquatic entomologists, freshwater insect collectors

Tradeoff Only useful near water; a specialized purchase for year two

Best starter
BioQuip

Professional 15-Inch Fine Mesh Aerial Insect Net

$$

Our rating

This is the 15-inch aerial net that university entomology labs stock: fine-mesh polyester that won't tear butterfly wings, a rigid aluminum hoop, and a handle that collapses for transport. No frills, just the standard tool that working entomologists have used for decades.

What we like

  • University-grade construction; this net lasts for decades
  • Fine nylon mesh protects butterfly and moth wings from tearing
  • Collapsible handle packs down to 18 inches for day hike transport

What to know

  • Pricier than Amazon generics; the quality difference is real though
  • Collapsible joint can loosen over time; check before field trips
Budget pick
Nature Bound

Butterfly Net with Telescoping Handle

$

Our rating

If you are not sure the hobby will stick, a $20-25 net from a reputable outdoor brand is a reasonable way in. The mesh is finer than the cheapest Amazon kits, the frame holds its shape reasonably well, and you are not out much if it turns out insect collecting is not for you.

What we like

  • Under $25 and fine enough mesh for butterflies and moths
  • Widely available and ships quickly for last-minute trips

What to know

  • Frame bends under repeated stress from sweep-style use
  • Slightly coarser mesh than BioQuip; not ideal for fragile wings
Specialty pick
General Science

Heavy-Duty Sailcloth Sweep Net, 15-Inch Hoop

$$

Our rating

Sweeping low vegetation is one of the most productive collection methods for beetles, true bugs, and weevils. The heavy sailcloth bag survives the abuse that would destroy a fine-mesh net in a single session. After your first season collecting flying insects, this is the tool you'll add for meadow and hedgerow work.

What we like

  • Heavy canvas survives aggressive sweeping through dense vegetation
  • Turns up beetles and bugs that a butterfly net would miss entirely

What to know

  • Destroys butterfly wings; strictly a sweep-only tool
  • Heavier than fine-mesh nets; your arm will notice on long days
Specimens of animals preserved in glass jars.

Photo by Brooke Balentine on Unsplash

Killing & Preservation

Preserving insects well is what separates a real collection from a pile of damaged specimens. Killing jars with ethyl acetate are the standard method: vapors work fast, the technique is humane, and specimens come out relaxed and easy to spread. For soft-bodied insects like flies, gnats, and spiders, isopropyl alcohol vials are better: they preserve tissue and prevent the bloating that ruins specimen appearance. A freezer works as a stopgap for a single catch, but it degrades wing color and tissue over time, so use it only when you are caught without a killing jar in the field.

Best starter
Carolina Biological

Insect Killing Jar, 8 oz Glass

$$

Our rating

The standard glass killing jar with an airtight cap: add a few drops of ethyl acetate to the plaster base and it's charged for a day's collecting. Carolina Biological is the same supplier universities use for entomology lab courses. Glass is essential here; ethyl acetate dissolves plastic lids over time.

What we like

  • Glass construction resists ethyl acetate degradation over years
  • Kills quickly and humanely with wings and colors intact
  • Plaster base recharges with just a few drops of ethyl acetate

What to know

  • Glass breaks in the field; keep it padded in a hard case
  • Ethyl acetate is a separate purchase; stock a few small bottles
Specialty pick
SOESFOUFU

Plastic Insect Specimen Storage Vials with Screw Caps (30-pack)

$

Our rating

For flies, gnats, midges, and any soft-bodied insect worth preserving for DNA work, isopropyl alcohol vials are the right tool. Drop the insect in, cap it, label with the collection date and location, and the specimen is preserved indefinitely. Far more practical than a killing jar when you are sorting a mixed sweep-net catch in the field.

What we like

  • Preserves soft-bodied insects and spiders indefinitely in alcohol
  • Labeled vials build a data record alongside the specimen

What to know

  • Not suitable for dry-mounted display; use only for soft-bodied insects
  • Need to supply your own isopropyl; the vials ship empty
Framed collection of pinned insects on a dark background

Photo by Marlon Medau on Unsplash

Mounting Supplies

Mounting converts a freshly killed insect into a permanent, study-quality specimen. The process needs three things: pins to hold the insect in position, a spreading board to hold wings and legs while the specimen dries, and fine forceps to handle the insect without oiling it with your fingers. Pin size matters: size 2 or 3 stainless pins work for most adult insects; anything under 5mm needs micro-pins. Specimens take 1-3 weeks to fully dry before moving to a display case. Rushing this step is the most common beginner mistake, and you cannot undo a cracked wing.

Best starter
Phusis

Stainless Steel Insect Pins Size 2 (100-count)

$

Our rating

Size 2 stainless pins are the de facto standard for most adult insects, from medium-to-large beetles to butterflies and moths. Stainless steel is non-negotiable: nickel-plated or plain steel pins rust in humid storage and stain specimens irreversibly within a year. University labs use BioQuip; these will outlast your collection by decades.

What we like

  • Stainless steel will not rust or stain specimens over decades
  • Size 2 works for the vast majority of adult insects
  • 100-count lasts a full season of moderate collecting

What to know

  • Too large for tiny insects under 5mm; need micro-pins for those
  • No storage case included; keep in the supplied paper sleeve
Budget pick
RESTCLOUD

Adjustable EVA Foam Insect Spreading Board

$

Our rating

A foam spreading board holds insects in the correct position while their exoskeleton hardens over 1-3 weeks. The adjustable EVA foam format works for a range of insect sizes, from small moths to large beetles. The central groove accommodates the body; wings are spread across the foam with tracing paper strips and extra pins.

What we like

  • Central groove keeps the insect body aligned while drying
  • Foam surface holds pins firmly without splitting

What to know

  • One board is never enough once you are actively collecting
  • Foam crumbles and degrades after 3-5 years of heavy use
Specialty pick
DR Instruments

Featherweight Entomology Forceps

$

Our rating

Handling insects with your fingers oils the cuticle and breaks off fragile antennae and legs. Fine-point stainless forceps are the right tool for every step: moving a freshly killed insect from the jar, positioning it on a pin, adjusting wings on a spreading board. They are cheap and you will use them constantly.

What we like

  • Fine point positions legs and antennae without breaking them
  • Stainless steel cleans with alcohol between specimens

What to know

  • Tip can pierce soft abdomens; use the flat-nose end for delicate work
  • Sharp points need a cap for safe transport in the field
Display cases showcase insect and butterfly collections.

Photo by Brooke Balentine on Unsplash

Display Cases

A good display case protects your collection from UV light (which bleaches wing color within months of window exposure) and dermestid beetles (a tiny pest that can destroy an unprotected collection overnight). Museum-quality entomology boxes have UV-blocking glass and a tight-fitting lid that excludes pests. Riker mounts are a simpler option for smaller or casual displays: cotton-filled frames where insects rest against the glass without pinning, ideal for a wall but not for a working scientific collection. Choose based on whether you want a display or a study collection.

Best starter
Southern Star

Classic Riker Mount Display Frames for Insects

$

Our rating

Riker mounts are the best beginner display option: cotton-filled frames where insects rest against glass without pinning. They look great on a wall, require no spreading expertise, and cost a fraction of a museum box. The limitation is that insects are not accessible once sealed, so they are ideal for display but not for a working scientific collection.

What we like

  • No spreading or pinning required; press specimens into cotton and seal
  • Wall-displayable and professional-looking at a low entry cost

What to know

  • Specimens not accessible once sealed; swapping is difficult
  • No UV blocking; noticeable fade after a year in direct light
Upgrade pick
EISCO

Polished Wood Insect Storage Box with Glass Top

$$$

Our rating

A real entomology box with a polished wood frame, glass top, foam pinning floor, and tight-fitting lid. EISCO's version is the kind of box university labs use: sturdy enough to protect your collection for decades, with a foam floor that holds pins cleanly. Buy one for your first serious pinned display and add boxes as your collection grows.

What we like

  • Foam floor holds insect pins cleanly at the correct height
  • Tight-fitting lid keeps dermestid beetles and humidity out

What to know

  • Significant upfront cost; justify once your pinned collection grows
  • Heavier than wall frames; needs shelf or cabinet storage

Field Guides

Identification is the payoff of the whole hobby: matching a specimen to a species name and placing it in its ecological context. For North America, two field guides cover most of what you will encounter. The Peterson guide is the most comprehensive, with detailed drawings of over 700 families. The Kaufman guide uses photographs, which some beginners find easier to match against real specimens. Neither will get you to species level without a microscope for many groups, but both will get you to family or genus, which is genuinely satisfying and useful for submitting records to citizen-science platforms like iNaturalist.

Best starter
Houghton Mifflin

A Field Guide to Insects: America North of Mexico (Peterson Field Guides)

$$

Our rating

The gold-standard insect reference for North American collectors: 1,500 illustrations covering more than 700 families across all orders. The drawings are detailed enough to distinguish similar-looking species, and the family-level keys teach you to think like an entomologist. Written by Borror and White, it has been in print for 50 years for a reason.

What we like

  • 1,500 illustrations covering 700+ North American families
  • Family-level keys teach entomological thinking, not just photo-matching
  • 50 years in print; the standard reference for North American collectors

What to know

  • Illustrations only, no photographs; takes a session or two to adjust
  • Not detailed enough for species-level ID in many insect groups
Budget pick
Houghton Mifflin

Kaufman Field Guide to Insects of North America

$$

Our rating

The Kaufman guide uses enhanced photographs instead of drawings, making it faster for beginners to match a fresh specimen to a page. Covers 2,350 species with distribution maps and natural history notes. Not as comprehensive as the Peterson for key work, but more approachable as a first guide.

What we like

  • Photographs make matching a real specimen faster for new collectors
  • 2,350 species with range maps and natural history notes

What to know

  • Photos show one angle; real specimens often need multiple views
  • Less diagnostic than Peterson for distinguishing similar families
Specialty pick
Stackpole Books

Tracks and Signs of Insects and Other Invertebrates

$$

Our rating

Most field guides identify the insect itself. This book identifies what insects leave behind: leaf mines, galls, egg masses, frass patterns, and wood galleries. If you want to find and understand insects in the field rather than only collect them, this book changes how you see every plant you walk past. Nothing else comes close.

What we like

  • Completely unique: identifies leaf mines, galls, and insect signs
  • Doubles your field awareness; changes how you see every plant

What to know

  • Not a specimen ID guide; use alongside Peterson or Kaufman
  • Covers all invertebrates; some sections less relevant for beginners
Going deeper

Your first month of entomology

Most insect collectors started by looking down in the grass and wondering what they just found. Here is the month that turns that curiosity into a real collection and a real skill.

Read the guide →
Save your money

What you don't need yet

Beginners get pressured to buy a lot of stuff that doesn't help them play better. Here's what we'd skip on day one.

  • UV blacklight moth trap — Moth trapping at night is one of the best collection methods, but it requires a power source, significant time commitment, and sorting hundreds of moths. Save it for year two once you are comfortable with the basics.
  • Cyanide killing jar — Some serious collectors still use potassium cyanide for instant kills, but it is genuinely dangerous, regulated in most states, and completely unnecessary for beginners. Ethyl acetate works for 99% of fieldwork.
  • Stereo microscope — A 10x hand loupe is all you need for the first year. A stereo microscope becomes useful for tiny insects and species-level ID in groups like flies and wasps, but that is a second-year purchase once you know you want that depth.
  • DNA barcoding supplies — DNA barcoding via iNaturalist partner labs is genuinely useful for citizen science, but you need a solid morphological foundation first. Do not jump to DNA before you can ID an insect to order by eye.
  • Rearing cages for larvae — Rearing insects from eggs or larvae to adults is fascinating but demanding. Get comfortable collecting and mounting adults before taking on live specimens.
First week

Your first seven days

A short, real plan to get from gear-on-doorstep to actually playing.

  1. Download iNaturalist and spend an hour photographing insects in your yard or a nearby park before buying any equipment. You will learn what is in your area and build an ID baseline. · Action
  2. Order a 15-inch fine-mesh aerial net so it arrives before the weekend. · Buy
  3. Check collecting rules for your target area. National park? Off limits. Your backyard? Go for it. State park? Read the specific regulations; they vary by state. · Action
  4. Make your first sweep through a sunny meadow, hedgerow, or garden. Swing through vegetation, invert the net quickly, and see what you catch. Release everything your first day; just observe what is there. · Action
  5. Watch one short tutorial on basic insect spreading and pinning before you try it. Getting the first spread right saves a lot of frustration. · Learn
  6. Pick up a Peterson or Kaufman field guide. · Buy
  7. Order insect pins (size 2) and a foam spreading board once you catch something worth keeping. · Buy
FAQ

Common questions

Is insect collecting legal?

For common insects on private land (with permission) or public roadsides, yes, in most places. National parks and many nature reserves prohibit collecting entirely. Some species are federally protected and require a permit. Always check local rules before collecting on managed land. iNaturalist is a legal alternative everywhere: photograph and release, and your observation counts as verified citizen-science data.

Do I have to kill the insects? Can I do photography-only entomology?

Absolutely. Many enthusiast entomologists photograph and release everything. iNaturalist has over 50 million observations and uses AI plus expert review to identify species from photos. You can build a life list of hundreds of species without ever pinning an insect.

What insects should I target first as a beginner?

Common butterflies and larger beetles are the best starters. They are easy to catch, easy to identify to species, and straightforward to spread and pin. Avoid small flies and tiny beetles at first; they require micro-pins and microscopy that add complexity you don't need on day one.

How long does a pinned insect collection last?

Indefinitely, if stored correctly. Museum specimens over 150 years old remain in excellent condition in the right environment. The main threats are UV light (bleaches wing color within months in a sunny room), high humidity (promotes mold), and dermestid beetles (a tiny pest that eats dried insect tissue). A UV-glass display box with a tight-fitting lid and a mothball inside solves all three.

How much does it cost to get started?

Under $80 for the essentials: a $25-40 aerial net, a $15-20 killing jar kit, a $10-15 box of insect pins, and a foam spreading board. A display case adds $20-60 depending on quality. The field guide is $25-35. Total entry cost is well under $150.

Do I need a microscope?

Not to start. A 10x hand loupe is all you need for the first year. A stereo microscope becomes useful for tiny insects and species-level ID in groups like flies and wasps, but that is a second-year purchase once you know you want that level of detail.

Going further

Where to next

Authoritative sources

  • iNaturalist — The largest community science biodiversity platform. Submit photos for expert and AI identification. Your observations become part of the scientific record.
  • BugGuide.net — Expert-curated insect identification database for North America. Submit photos for species-level ID assistance from a community of specialists.
  • Entomological Society of America — The professional society for entomologists. Their magazine American Entomologist has accessible content for enthusiasts, and they maintain a directory of regional entomological societies.
  • North American Butterfly Association — Butterfly-specific organization with counts, garden resources, and a beginner ID course. Good starting point if Lepidoptera is your primary interest.
  • Xerces Society — Invertebrate conservation organization. Valuable for understanding which species are imperiled and what collecting protocols to follow in sensitive areas.