Beginner's guide

So you're getting into pinball collecting

A real pinball machine in your house changes how rooms work. Friends who've never given it a second thought suddenly want to play. Here's how to buy your first one right: not overpaying, not inheriting a broken restoration project, and with a plan for keeping it running.

By Colin B. · Published June 17, 2026 · Last reviewed June 17, 2026

The 60-second version

If you only buy 3 things to start:

  1. Game Room Guys 105-Piece Pinball Rubber Ring Kit — The first thing you order after a used machine arrives. New rubber makes everything play right.
  2. Novus Plastic Polish Kit (1, 2, 3) — Novus 3-pack: makes a 30-year-old playfield look its age, not beaten. Essential shop-out supply.
  3. Klein Tools MM300 Digital Multimeter — The one tool for any pinball diagnosis: fuses, coils, switches, power supply.
Budget total
$800
Typical total
$2000
A clean electromechanical game runs $800-2000 used. Clean solid-state Williams or Bally from the early '90s: $1500-3500. Add $150-300 for shop-out supplies.

We earn commission on qualifying Amazon purchases — see our affiliate disclosure. Price tiers and budget totals shown above are editorial estimates; actual Amazon prices vary.

At a glance

Our top pick in each category

The fastest path through this guide — each best-starter pick by category. Scroll for the budget and upgrade alternatives.

CategoryTop pickPriceWhere to buy
MachinesArcade1UPArcade1UP Williams Bally Pinball Machine$$$ See on Amazon →
Rubber & Maintenance KitsGame Room GuysGame Room Guys 105-Piece Pinball Rubber Ring Kit$ See on Amazon →
LED Upgrade KitsRetroArcade.usRetroArcade.us T10 555 Pinball LED Bulbs (10-pack)$ See on Amazon →
Playfield CleaningNovusNovus Plastic Polish Kit (1, 2, 3)$ See on Amazon →
Electronics ToolsKlein ToolsKlein Tools MM300 Digital Multimeter$$ See on Amazon →
Before you buy anything

A few things worth knowing first

Buy a machine in a theme you actually love. You will look at it for years. A clean game in a theme you don't care about will become furniture. Browse the Pinside Top 100, play some ROMs on your phone, and make the choice on theme first.

The cheapest machines are the most expensive. A $400 project game sounds like a deal until you're six months in with $800 in parts and still no playable machine. For your first buy, pay more for something already working that just needs a standard shop-out.

Join Pinside.com before you buy anything. Search the machine you're considering in the forums. You'll learn about common failure points, scarce parts, and whether the theme holds up after a thousand plays. Takes 20 minutes and saves hundreds of dollars.

The gear

What you actually need

Machines

Real machines aren't sold on Amazon; they're found on Pinside Marketplace, eBay, and local classifieds. But if you want to test the hobby before committing $1500-3500 to a used machine, Arcade1UP's digital cabinets are a legitimate bridge. They run real Williams and Bally ROMs in purpose-built cabinets. Digital is not mechanical, but it answers the right question: do you love playing pinball enough to maintain one?

Machines — what's the difference?

A few common shapes, each making a different trade.

Digital Cabinet

Affordable simulation. Best for testing whether you love pinball before committing.

New price
$400-700
Maintenance
None
Physical feel
Digital simulation, real controls

Best for First-timers not yet ready to spend $2000+ on a real machine

Tradeoff Not real mechanical pinball; no solenoids, rubber, or repair skills

↓ See our pick
Electromechanical (1969-1977)

All-mechanical relay logic. Cheapest real machines; steepest maintenance curve.

Used price
$800-2000
Era
1969-1977
Maintenance
High (relay and solenoid focused)

Best for Collectors drawn to mechanical systems and vintage aesthetics

Tradeoff Relay logic is harder to diagnose than circuit boards; parts can be scarce

Solid-State (1977-1999)

Circuit board logic. Widest variety, best value, the collector sweet spot.

Used price
$1500-4000
Era
1977-1999
Maintenance
Medium (cap kits and switches)

Best for Most first-time buyers; best mix of value, repairability, and theme variety

Tradeoff 30-40-year-old boards often need a capacitor refresh kit

Modern Stern / Jersey Jack

New-production machines. Full warranty, LCD displays, current software.

New price
$6000-9500
Warranty
1 year parts and labor
Software
Over-the-air updates via Insider Connected

Best for Collectors who want dealer support and the latest software features

Tradeoff $6000+ price point; buy a used classic first unless budget allows both

Best starter
Arcade1UP

Williams Bally Pinball Machine

$$$

Our rating

Arcade1UP's Williams Bally cabinet runs ten licensed titles including Attack from Mars, Medieval Madness, Fish Tales, and White Water. At around $600, it's a fraction of the cost of a real machine with zero maintenance. If you're not sure you'll love owning pinball before spending $2000, this is the right way to find out.

What we like

  • Licensed Williams ROM with real rules, real shots, real scoring
  • Zero maintenance vs. the ongoing upkeep of a real machine
  • Full-size cabinet with authentic Williams artwork and controls

What to know

  • Digital only; builds no shop-out or board repair skills
  • Resale value drops quickly; real machines appreciate over time
Budget pick
AtGames

Legends Pinball Machine

$$

Our rating

Twenty-two licensed classic and original pinball tables in one full-size cabinet. AtGames covers a broader range of titles than single-machine cabinets, at around $400. If you want to sample the widest range of tables before committing to a real machine, this is the way to do it.

What we like

  • Ten Williams and Bally classics in one unit
  • Compact size works in apartments and smaller game rooms
  • Around $400 for the widest golden-era pinball coverage

What to know

  • Compact form factor uses a slightly different playfield angle
  • Simulation only; no solenoid feedback of real flippers

Rubber & Maintenance Kits

Every used machine needs a shop-out when you bring it home: replace all rubber rings, posts, and flipper rubbers; clean the playfield; check every bulb. A complete game-specific rubber kit covers hundreds of Williams, Bally, and Stern titles and runs $25-60. New rubber makes the ball bounce true again and is the most impactful single maintenance task you'll do on a used machine.

Best starter
Game Room Guys

105-Piece Pinball Rubber Ring Kit

$

Our rating

105 assorted black rubber rings covering the standard sizes used in most Williams, Bally, and Gottlieb machines from the 1980s and '90s. One kit handles a complete shop-out for most games. Cross-reference the bag against your service manual to confirm all your game's ring sizes are covered.

What we like

  • Game-specific kits match every rubber part for your exact machine
  • Pre-sorted by location makes installation systematic and clear
  • New rubber is the highest-impact shop-out step; old rubber hardens

What to know

  • Must order for your specific game title, not universal
  • Rubber degrades again in 3-5 years; budget for repeat orders
Specialty pick
Pinball Life

Williams Bally Flipper Rebuild Kit (1993-1998)

$

Our rating

Covers Williams and Bally machines from 1993 through 1998, plus Chicago Gaming, Jersey Jack, and Spooky machines. Includes every flipper wear part: plunger rod, link, return spring, EOS switch, and rubber. Restores full factory flipper power in 30-60 minutes per side.

What we like

  • Includes every wear part: plunger, link, spring, EOS switch, rubber
  • Restores factory flipper power in 30-60 minutes per side

What to know

  • Must order for your specific machine; Williams and Bally parts differ
  • EOS switch needs soldering; watch a video walkthrough before starting

LED Upgrade Kits

Swapping original incandescent bulbs for LEDs is the most visually dramatic afternoon mod you can do. The whole machine gets brighter, more vivid, and runs cooler. Start with warm white (2700-3000K) for a period-correct look; cool white washes out vintage artwork. A standard GI conversion runs $30-80 depending on machine size and covers all the general illumination sockets.

Best starter
RetroArcade.us

T10 555 Pinball LED Bulbs (10-pack)

$

Our rating

T10/555-compatible LED bulbs from a pinball-specialist supplier. Order 3-5 packs for a full general illumination swap on most Williams and Bally games. Plug-in replacement for original #44 and #47 incandescent sockets. Clear versions let the original lens colors show through.

What we like

  • Plug-in swap; fits original sockets with no wiring changes
  • Warm white preserves the vintage look of period playfield artwork
  • LEDs last 10+ years vs. 3-6 months for original incandescent bulbs

What to know

  • Some machines need a ghosting diode to prevent GI flicker
  • Cool white (too bright, too blue) looks wrong on vintage art
Specialty pick
NIFTY

Super Bright Frosted Pinball LED Bulb

$$

Our rating

Frosted diffusion spreads light more evenly than clear LEDs in colored inserts. The frosted housing prevents the harsh pinpoint-hotspot look that clear LEDs can create on tight insert designs. Use these for inserts where you want even, soft illumination.

What we like

  • Pre-matched insert colors preserve the game's original artistic intent
  • Covers every socket: GI, inserts, flashers, and backbox together

What to know

  • Game-specific kits cost $60-120; order a sample pack first
  • Wrong color choice is hard to undo after a full conversion

Playfield Cleaning

A dirty playfield slows the ball and dulls the artwork. Ball swirl marks, rubber residue, and oxidized clearcoat all need addressing on any used machine. Novus Plastic Polish is the pinball standard for cleaning and restoring acrylic surfaces. 99% isopropyl alcohol removes grime before you polish. Super Lube silicone keeps metal guides and shooter lanes fast. All three together cost under $30.

Best starter
Novus

Plastic Polish Kit (1, 2, 3)

$

Our rating

Three grades for everything on a pinball playfield: #1 cleans and shines, #2 removes fine scratches and ball swirl marks, #3 tackles deep scratches. Work from #3 to #1 in order. A $30 kit that makes a 30-year-old playfield look like it was cared for.

What we like

  • Industry standard for pinball, pool tables, and acrylic restoration
  • Three grades cover cleaning through deep scratch removal in one kit
  • Under $30 for enough polish to treat five machines

What to know

  • Won't restore heavily crazed or worn-through clearcoat
  • Apply #2 and #3 sparingly; each use removes a thin clearcoat layer
Budget pick
Unbranded

99% Isopropyl Alcohol (32 oz)

$

Our rating

Before you polish, clean. A lint-free cloth with 99% IPA removes decades of ball grease, rubber residue, and grime that would scratch the playfield if you polished over it. Also the right cleaner for pinball circuit boards. Buy this before the machine arrives.

What we like

  • Removes ball grease and rubber residue without damaging artwork
  • Safe for playfield art, inserts, and circuit boards at 99%

What to know

  • Must be 99%; 70% IPA contains too much water, avoid on older playfields
  • Fast-evaporating; wear gloves for extended cleaning sessions
Specialty pick
Super Lube

Multi-Purpose Synthetic Lubricant with PTFE

$

Our rating

The standard lubricant for pinball shooter lanes, wireforms, and metal ball guides. A thin film keeps the ball fast and stops the metal-on-metal squeaking that develops in neglected machines. Called for in Williams and Bally factory service manuals.

What we like

  • PTFE formula gives dry, clean lubrication that doesn't attract debris
  • Called for in original Williams and Bally service manuals

What to know

  • Never on playfield or rubber; silicone degrades both permanently
  • Aerosol overspray; mask surrounding areas before applying

Electronics Tools

You don't need an electronics degree to maintain a pinball machine, but you need a multimeter and basic soldering tools. The multimeter diagnoses fuses in 30 seconds, checks coil resistance, verifies switch continuity, and reads power supply voltages -- the chain of diagnosis for almost every problem you'll encounter. A soldering iron handles connector repair and switch adjustments.

Best starter
Klein Tools

MM300 Digital Multimeter

$$

Our rating

A multimeter is how you figure out why anything in a pinball machine isn't working. Klein's MM300 reads DC and AC voltage, resistance, continuity, and diode function -- all four measurements you'll use in pinball diagnostics. Reliable brand trusted by electricians, compact enough for inside-cabinet use.

What we like

  • Reads voltage, resistance, continuity, and diodes -- all needed for pinball
  • Klein brand trusted in electrical trades; accurate and well-made
  • Compact enough to maneuver inside a pinball cabinet

What to know

  • Not auto-ranging; manually select the measurement range before reading
  • No backlight; harder to use in dim cabinet interiors
Budget pick
Vastar

Soldering Iron Kit

$

Our rating

Pinball repair means soldering connectors back onto driver boards, fixing broken switch wires, and replacing corroded pins. This kit includes the iron, solder, stand, multiple tips, and cleaning sponge. Under $25 and covers everything a beginning machine owner needs in the first year.

What we like

  • Kit includes iron, solder, stand, multiple tips, and cleaning sponge
  • Under $25; right amount to spend before you know how often you'll solder

What to know

  • Inconsistent tip heat; upgrade to a Hakko station for board work
  • Included solder is low quality; replace with 60/40 rosin-core solder
Upgrade pick
Hakko

FX-888D Soldering Station

$$$

Our rating

Once you're doing real board work -- replacing connector pins, resoldering driver board components -- the Hakko FX-888D pays for itself in joint quality. Fast heat recovery, accurate temperature dial, and compatibility with Hakko's full tip line. The station serious pinball technicians use.

What we like

  • Rapid heat recovery keeps temperature consistent through a full repair
  • Compatible with Hakko's full range of tip profiles
  • Industry standard used by professional electronics technicians

What to know

  • Analog dial; no precise digital temperature display on base model
  • $100-120; more station than you need until repairing regularly
Going deeper

Your first month with a pinball machine

You found your first machine, brought it home, and now the real education starts. Here's what the first 30 days of pinball ownership actually looks like.

Read the guide →
Save your money

What you don't need yet

Beginners get pressured to buy a lot of stuff that doesn't help them play better. Here's what we'd skip on day one.

  • A second machine (in the first 90 days) — The acquisition impulse hits fast and hard. Commit to one machine and learn it completely before adding another. You'll be a smarter buyer the second time.
  • Playfield protector or Mylar sheet — Experienced collectors mostly skip these on originals. Proper cleaning and waxing is the right care routine. Mylar on a used machine often traps grime underneath.
  • ColorDMD color display upgrade — A $200 color display mod for dot-matrix-era machines. Genuinely nice, but not your first priority. Learn the machine's rules and sounds first; ColorDMD is a second-year project.
  • Reproduction backglass — Runs $200-500 and is unnecessary until you know the condition of your original. Your first task is evaluating, not replacing.
  • A dedicated pinball workbench — A card table and good lighting handles your first year of repairs. The dedicated workbench is for collectors maintaining three or more machines.
First week

Your first seven days

A short, real plan to get from gear-on-doorstep to actually playing.

  1. Join Pinside.com and find your machine's dedicated discussion thread before you do anything else. · Action
  2. Download the service manual for your machine from IPDB. You'll refer to it constantly. · Learn
  3. Order your rubber kit, Novus polish, IPA, and multimeter before the machine arrives. · Buy
  4. Do your first shop-out: clean the playfield with IPA, replace all rubber, and test all flippers and bumpers. · Action
  5. Play 20 games and write down what doesn't work: stuck ball, weak flipper, dead light zone, or intermittent GI outage. · Action
  6. Post a photo and your findings to Pinside. The community loves first-machine posts and you'll get useful diagnosis help. · Action
FAQ

Common questions

Where do I actually buy a used pinball machine?

Pinside Marketplace is the best source: listings include Pinside reputation scores and detailed photos. eBay has wide selection but requires more due diligence on sellers. Local classifieds (Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist) let you inspect in person. Avoid 'project machines' unless you know exactly what you're taking on.

What should I expect to pay for a first machine?

Budget $800-2000 for a working electromechanical game; $1500-3500 for a clean solid-state Williams or Bally from the early '90s. A machine advertised as 'just needs a little work' almost always needs more. Pay for proven condition, not potential.

How hard is it to maintain a pinball machine?

Easier than most people expect. A standard shop-out (clean, new rubber, bulb check) is a beginner-friendly afternoon project. Electronics diagnosis is more complex but every machine has a dedicated Pinside thread with repair walkthroughs. Most problems you'll encounter are already documented.

What's the difference between an EM and a solid-state machine?

Electromechanical (EM) machines from 1969-1977 use relay logic -- all-mechanical switching with a distinctive clunking sound. Solid-state machines (1977 onward) use circuit boards for scoring and logic. Most beginners start with solid-state. The early '90s Williams era (Theatre of Magic, Medieval Madness, Addams Family) is the collector sweet spot.

Are pinball machines a good investment?

Clean examples of popular titles (Addams Family, Medieval Madness, Attack from Mars) have appreciated steadily over 20 years. But buy because you love playing, not for investment return. Condition matters enormously to resale value, and maintenance is an ongoing commitment.

What should I watch for when buying a used machine?

Look for: all flippers work, no stuck balls, original playfield art intact, seller who plays it regularly. Red flags: 'needs minor repair,' modified boards without documentation, deep ball damage under inserts. Always ask for a 15-minute gameplay video before making the trip.

Going further

Where to next

Browse by category

Authoritative sources

  • Pinside — The central pinball community: forum, marketplace, and machine database. Search any machine to find its dedicated thread with buyer guides, common problems, and repair walkthroughs.
  • IPDB — Internet Pinball Machine Database — Free archive of service manuals, schematics, and production data for virtually every commercial pinball machine ever made. The first stop before any repair.
  • Pinball Resource — Original-manufacturer authorized parts for Williams, Bally, Gottlieb, and Stern. When Pinside says 'get it from PBR,' this is where.
  • Pinball Life — Game-specific rubber kits, LED components, and replacement parts. The most beginner-friendly parts catalog; easy to find what you need for your specific title.
  • r/pinball — Active community. Good for first-machine questions and condition assessments when you post photos. Less technical depth than Pinside but faster response for quick questions.
  • Stern Pinball — The main manufacturer of new production machines. Browse their current lineup and use the dealer locator for local authorized service.