FAQ
Common questions
Does indigo color fade?
Yes, and that's partly the point. Indigo fades from the outside in over time, softening toward lighter blue. This is considered beautiful — it's part of what makes shibori distinctive. Washing inside-out in cold water slows the fade. Many practitioners consider the aged look better than the original.
What fabrics work for shibori?
Cotton, linen, and silk all take indigo well. Synthetics (polyester, nylon, acrylic) won't dye at all. In a blend, only the natural fiber content takes color, producing a muted result. For the cleanest patterns, use 100% natural fiber fabric and look for 'PFD' on the label.
How hard is the chemistry?
A pre-reduced kit manages the hardest part for you. You mix three measured ingredients, add water, and the vat is ready in 30 minutes. The most common beginner mistake is over-stirring, which introduces oxygen and deactivates the vat. Stir gently around the edges, never whipping the surface.
How much does it cost to get started?
Under $120 for everything: an indigo kit ($40-80), binding supplies ($10-15), cotton fabric or totes ($15-25), and gloves plus an apron ($15-20). Most supplies are reusable, so ongoing costs drop to roughly $15-25 per session in kit replenishment.
What is the difference between the shibori techniques?
The main four: kumo (gather and bind with rubber bands — circular and sunburst patterns), itajime (fold and clamp between boards — geometric shapes), arashi (wrap around a pole — diagonal stripes), and ne-maki (bind with thread — precise circles). Start with kumo. It needs only rubber bands and gives clear results fast.
Do I need a special dye container?
No. Any food-grade container that holds several gallons works. A 5-gallon stainless steel bucket or large stainless stockpot is the standard. Avoid aluminum (reacts with the alkaline bath) and copper (contaminates indigo chemistry). Stainless steel and HDPE plastic are both safe.