FAQ
Common questions
What is the best pouring medium for beginners?
Floetrol is the best starting point. It's a paint conditioner sold at hardware stores for about $8 a quart, and the fluid-art community adopted it because it works beautifully and is far cheaper than art-supply alternatives. Most beginner tutorials you'll find use Floetrol. Once you care about archival quality, upgrade to Liquitex Pouring Effects Medium.
How do I get cells in my acrylic pour?
Cells require silicone oil. Add 2-3 drops of 100% silicone oil to each color cup and do a quick torch pass (3-5 seconds from 6 inches above) immediately after pouring. More silicone does not equal more cells. Overusing it causes the dry paint to peel. Start with 2 drops per cup and adjust from there.
Can I use regular acrylic paint for pouring?
Yes, but you need to mix it with pouring medium. Heavy-body tube acrylics need significant medium. Budget craft acrylics need roughly 2 parts medium to 1 part paint. Pre-mixed fluid acrylics require no mixing. The correct consistency: paint should flow off a stir stick in a ribbon and hold shape for 2 seconds before sinking back in.
How long does it take for an acrylic pour to dry?
Surface-dry in 1-2 hours, fully dry in 24 hours, fully cured in 72 hours. Don't touch, move, or tilt the canvas for at least 24 hours or you'll smear the wet paint. Keep it perfectly level the entire drying time.
What size canvas should I start with?
8x10" is the sweet spot for beginners. Large enough for patterns to develop, small enough that you won't waste a lot of paint on mistakes. Anything under 6x6" is too small to learn on; anything over 12x16" at the start uses more paint than you've learned to control.
Do I need a torch for acrylic pouring?
Only if you want cells. Without silicone oil and a torch, you'll still get beautiful color flows, lacing, and marble-like patterns, just not the iconic cell look. Start without a torch, then add it once you're comfortable with basic pour technique and mixing ratios.