FAQ
Common questions
Do I really need UV-protective cases for everything?
For anything you paid real money for, yes. UV rays fade Sharpie and paint signatures within 2-3 years of indirect exposure. UV-filtering glass or acrylic blocks most of that degradation. A $30 UV case on a $500 signed jersey is the cheapest insurance you can buy.
How do I display a signed jersey without damaging it?
Never pin through the fabric. Use a shadowbox frame with foam backing that the jersey rests against, held by tension rather than punctures. The PENNZONI and DisplayGifts frames recommended here both use this approach. Pinning causes permanent holes and can split seams over time.
What's the difference between PSA, JSA, and Beckett authentication?
All three are reputable. PSA is the largest and most recognized for balls and cards. JSA (James Spence Authentication) specializes in autographs. Beckett (BAS) is strong for modern athletes. For resale, PSA and JSA-authenticated items command the highest buyer premiums.
Can I display a signed item without a COA?
You can display it, but you can't sell it at full value. A COA converts an item from 'probably real' to 'documentably real.' Always insist on a COA when buying anything over $100 from a secondary market seller, and store them in a dedicated archival binder from day one.
How do I stop room lighting from fading my memorabilia?
Switch display areas to LED lighting only. Incandescent bulbs emit UV and heat that accelerate fading. LED lights run cool and most don't emit meaningful UV. For truly valuable pieces, add UV-filtering window film to any nearby windows that get direct afternoon sun.
What's the right order to build a display setup?
Start with protection: UV cases for your top pieces and archival sleeves for every COA. Then pick a spot. Then add lighting once you know what the collection looks like on the wall. Buy the display furniture last, not first.