Beginner's guide

So you want to build Gundam models

Gunpla is one of the most satisfying hobbies you can start with $50 and a kitchen table. The trick: knowing which grade to start with, and which three tools actually matter before you go deep on paint and custom work.

By Colin B. · Published May 24, 2026 · Last reviewed May 24, 2026

The 60-second version

If you only buy 3 things to start:

  1. Bandai Hobby HGCE 1/144 Freedom Gundam — The best HG starter kit — iconic design, modern snap-fit engineering, no painting required.
  2. Tamiya Sharp Pointed Side Cutter for Plastic — Tamiya nippers are the single most important tool purchase for any new Gunpla builder.
  3. GSI Creos Gundam Marker Panel Line Set (GM01/GM02/GM03) — Gundam Markers make panel lining foolproof — no thinner, no mess, huge visual upgrade.
Budget total
$65
Typical total
$110
A solid HG kit ($25), good nippers ($23), panel liner ($12), and a can of top coat ($10) puts you at $70. Add a cutting mat and hobby knife and you're at $110 for a complete setup that'll last years.
At a glance

Our top pick in each category

The fastest path through this guide — each best-starter pick by category. Scroll for the budget and upgrade alternatives.

CategoryTop pickPriceWhere to buy
Model KitsBandai SpiritsBandai Hobby HGCE 1/144 Freedom Gundam$$ See on Amazon →
NippersTamiyaTamiya Sharp Pointed Side Cutter for Plastic$$ See on Amazon →
Panel LiningBandai SpiritsGSI Creos Gundam Marker Panel Line Set (GM01/GM02/GM03)$ See on Amazon →
Top CoatTamiyaTamiya TS-80 Flat Clear Spray$ See on Amazon →
Work ToolsTamiyaTamiya 74016 Basic Tool Set for Plastic Models$$ See on Amazon →
Before you buy anything

A few things worth knowing first

Start with HG (High Grade) only. Not MG. Not PG. Not RG. Every new builder who starts with a Master Grade because they like the design ends up frustrated by the part count and complexity. One or two HG kits first — then you'll know exactly what you're ready for.

Nippers are non-negotiable. You can technically pop plastic off the runner with a craft knife, but you'll leave nub marks everywhere. The $23 Tamiya side cutter pays for itself on the first kit. Don't start without one.

You don't need to paint to make a great-looking kit. Panel lining (tracing the recessed grooves with a dark marker) plus a matte top coat adds 80% of the visual impact that painting achieves at 20% of the effort and cost. Start there and decide if you want to go deeper later.

The gear

What you actually need

white red and blue robot

Photo by Jason Ng on Unsplash

Model Kits

The grade system is where beginners get tripped up. HG (High Grade, 1/144 scale) is where everyone should start — modern snap-fit engineering, realistic proportions, and none of the complexity that bogs down new builders. Entry Grade (EG) is even simpler if you want the absolute easiest first build. Real Grade (RG) is HG-size but with dramatically more detail and a fiddly inner frame — great second kit, not a first. Master Grade (MG, 1/100 scale) is the hobbyist sweet spot once you have a few builds under your belt. Perfect Grade (PG, 1/60 scale) is the pinnacle — 500+ parts, $250+, and genuinely requires experience to enjoy.

Model Kits — what's the difference?

A few common shapes, each making a different trade.

Entry Grade (EG)

No tools needed. Best proof-of-concept kit.

Scale
1/144
Parts
~50-80
Build time
1-2 hrs

Best for Absolute first-timers, kids, gift recipients who may not commit

Tradeoff Less detail than HG; you'll want to move up after one build

High Grade (HG)

The real start. Where most builders should begin.

Scale
1/144
Parts
~150-300
Build time
3-8 hrs

Best for All new builders who are ready to invest in tools

Tradeoff Smaller scale makes panel lining and stickers fiddlier than MG

Real Grade (RG)

HG-size with MG-level detail. Fiddly inner frame.

Scale
1/144
Parts
~300-500
Build time
8-15 hrs

Best for Builders who want HG shelf footprint but MG detail

Tradeoff Inner frame at 1/144 scale is very small — tweezers are required

Master Grade (MG)

The hobbyist sweet spot. Full inner frame, 1/100 scale.

Scale
1/100
Parts
~300-600
Build time
15-30 hrs

Best for Builders with 3+ HG builds who want a serious project

Tradeoff Complexity spike is real — finish HGs first

Best starter
Bandai Spirits

Bandai Hobby HGCE 1/144 Freedom Gundam

$$

The HGCE Freedom is one of the cleanest, best-engineered HG kits in the lineup — dynamic wing silhouette, great articulation, and modern snap-fit that goes together without hassle. Freedom is an iconic Mobile Suit that looks great on a shelf. Perfect first or second HG build.

What we like

  • Iconic design that photographs and displays beautifully
  • Modern engineering — pieces fit cleanly, no warping or sink marks
  • No paint needed; color accuracy from molded plastic alone

What to know

  • Wing joints can be fragile with over-rotation — be deliberate
  • Pre-applied stickers are an art form — take your time with them
See on Amazon →
Budget pick
Bandai Spirits

BANDAI Entry Grade 1/144 RX-78-2 Gundam

$

The Entry Grade is the easiest, cheapest way to see if Gunpla clicks. Under $10, no nippers required (runners break cleanly by hand), and the original Gundam design is timeless. Not a long build, but a perfect proof of concept before you invest in tools.

What we like

  • Under $10 — lowest-risk intro to the hobby
  • No nippers needed; designed to break from runner by hand cleanly
  • RX-78-2 is the original Gundam — the most recognized design

What to know

  • Noticeably simpler than HG or above — limited panel line detail
  • You'll outgrow the challenge of it after one build
See on Amazon →
Upgrade pick
Bandai Spirits

BANDAI MG 1/100 Freedom Gundam Ver.2.0

$$$

When you're ready for a real challenge, Master Grade Freedom 2.0 is where most builders land. 1/100 scale, detailed inner frame, and the same iconic design scaled up dramatically. Plan for 15-25 hours of build time and proper tools. The result belongs on a display case.

What we like

  • Dramatically more detail and presence than HG — a real showpiece
  • Inner frame gives you panel-open display options
  • 1/100 scale makes panel lining and painting much more forgiving

What to know

  • 15-25 hour build — not a weekend project
  • Part count is overwhelming for beginners; finish 2-3 HGs first
See on Amazon →

Nippers

This is not the category to skip. Nippers are how you cut plastic parts from the runner (the plastic tree they come attached to). Bad nippers stress-whiten the plastic at the cut and leave white nub marks that ruin the look. Good nippers cut clean in one pass. The difference between a $5 craft-store cutter and a proper Tamiya side cutter is immediately visible on your first kit. Once you've built a few HG kits and care about results, the God Hand single blade is the gold standard — it cuts so clean you almost need no sanding.

Best starter
Tamiya

Tamiya Sharp Pointed Side Cutter for Plastic

$$

The Tamiya 74035 is what every beginning builder should start with. Precise blades, comfortable grip, and clean enough cuts that you'll rarely see white stress marks on dark plastic. Lasts for years if you only use it on plastic runners. At $23 it's the single best investment you make in this hobby.

What we like

  • Clean cuts that minimize white stress marks on plastic
  • Precise tip reaches tight runner placements
  • Lasts years with plastic-only use — one-time purchase

What to know

  • Pointy tips require care — don't drop on hard floors
  • Blades dull if used on anything other than plastic
See on Amazon →
Upgrade pick
God Hand

GodHand Ultimate Nipper 5.0 (GH-SPN-120)

$$$

The GodHand Ultimate Nipper 5.0 is the obsessive builder's tool. One ultra-sharp blade cuts from one side only, which prevents the stress-whitening that double-blade nippers cause on deep cuts. Cuts are so clean you can place parts right at the gate with almost no sanding. Japanese-made, $55, and absolutely worth it once you care about gate marks.

What we like

  • Single-blade design prevents stress-whitening on tricky cuts
  • Japanese-made precision — the tool serious builders use
  • Eliminates nearly all gate mark sanding when used correctly

What to know

  • Fragile — one wrong cut voids the blade
  • Premium price is overkill until you've finished 5+ HG kits
See on Amazon →

Panel Lining

Panel lining means tracing the recessed grooves in a kit with a dark color to give parts depth, shadow, and the look of real mechanical detail. It's the single best visual upgrade you can do without an airbrush. A plain HG kit panel-lined and top-coated looks 10x better than an unfinished one. Gundam Markers are the beginner-friendly approach — they flow into the grooves and wipe away from flat surfaces with a damp Q-tip. Tamiya Panel Accent Colors are enamel-based and require enamel thinner to clean up, but flow better on larger kits.

Best starter
Bandai Spirits

GSI Creos Gundam Marker Panel Line Set (GM01/GM02/GM03)

$

Gundam Markers are the foolproof way to panel line. Run the tip along a recessed groove, let it flow in, wipe the surface residue with a damp Q-tip or cotton swab. No thinner required, no fumes, no mess. The three-pack gives you black for dark parts, gray for medium parts, and brown for tan and sand-colored parts.

What we like

  • No thinner needed — clean up with a damp cotton swab
  • Three-color set handles every kit color scenario
  • Safe for apartment builds — no chemical fumes

What to know

  • Tips dry out with heavy use — refresh by pumping on scrap plastic
  • Flow is thinner than enamel-based panel liners on wide grooves
See on Amazon →
Specialty pick
Tamiya

Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color — Black

$

Once you've done a few kits and want sharper results, Tamiya's enamel panel liner flows deeper and more consistently than markers. The black is the most useful — it self-levels into grooves beautifully. Clean excess with enamel thinner on a cotton swab. Requires ventilation but delivers noticeably crisper lines on MG-scale kits.

What we like

  • Self-leveling formula flows into grooves better than markers
  • Enamel base cleans with thinner for precise removal
  • Noticeable quality upgrade on MG-scale or repainted kits

What to know

  • Requires enamel thinner — extra supply to keep on hand
  • Can craze plastic under heavy stress-point application
See on Amazon →

Top Coat

A matte top coat is the finish that ties everything together. It seals your panel lines so they don't smear, unifies the sheen across all the different plastic colors, and gives the kit a realistic flat look instead of a toy-like shine. This is the step that most new builders skip and then regret after seeing a finished, top-coated kit side by side with one that isn't. Spray it in a well-ventilated area from about 12 inches away in light, sweeping coats — never soak the surface.

Best starter
Tamiya

Tamiya TS-80 Flat Clear Spray

$

Tamiya's TS-80 is the easiest top coat for a beginner to use well. Lacquer-based, dries fast, and gives a consistent flat finish that significantly elevates any kit. Available at most hobby shops and ships on Amazon. One can covers 2-3 HG kits if you apply light coats.

What we like

  • Fast dry time — parts handled within 30 minutes
  • Consistent flat finish that unifies all plastic sheen variations
  • Widely available in hobby shops — easy to restock

What to know

  • Lacquer fumes need real ventilation — not suitable for all spaces
  • White frosting on humid or cold days — check conditions first
See on Amazon →
Upgrade pick
Mr. Hobby

Mr. Super Clear UV Cut Flat (170ml)

$$

Mr. Super Clear is what most intermediate builders move to once they start panel lining or using water-slide decals. UV protection slows color fade over time, and the flat finish is exceptionally even. The 170ml bottle is more economical than rattle cans for heavy builders. Requires a spray can adapter or separate can.

What we like

  • UV protection slows yellowing — important for display kits
  • More economical per coat than individual rattle cans
  • Exceptionally even flat finish favored by competition builders

What to know

  • Still lacquer — same ventilation requirements apply
  • Requires a separate spray can propellant — more gear to buy
See on Amazon →

Work Tools

Beyond nippers, you need three things: a self-healing cutting mat to protect your table, a hobby knife to clean up gate marks and trim excess plastic, and tweezers for tiny stickers and decals. You can buy each separately, but Tamiya's basic tool set bundles what you need at a fair price. The cutting mat is the thing people skip and then regret — an OLFA or Tamiya mat lasts a decade and keeps your work surface clean and your blades sharper.

Best starter
Tamiya

Tamiya 74016 Basic Tool Set for Plastic Models

$$

Tamiya's basic tool set includes a hobby knife, sanding sponge, and tweezers — the three tools you reach for constantly. Each piece is Tamiya quality: sharp out of the box, comfortable to use, and sized right for 1/144 and 1/100 scale work. Buying them together saves money versus individual purchases.

What we like

  • Knife, tweezers, and sanding sponge in one quality-checked bundle
  • Tamiya hobby knife is noticeably sharper than generic craft knives
  • Sized for 1/144 and 1/100 scale precision work

What to know

  • Blade replacement is a recurring cost — buy extras at purchase
  • No cutting mat included — pair with an OLFA mat
See on Amazon →
Specialty pick
OLFA

OLFA Self-Healing Cutting Mat (A4)

$

An OLFA cutting mat is the quiet hero of a Gunpla workspace. Protects your table, keeps blades sharper (soft mat surface vs. hard wood), and gives you a clean grid reference. The A4 size fits on most desks without dominating the space. Buy it once and it lasts for years.

What we like

  • Self-healing surface extends knife blade life significantly
  • Printed grid helps with straight cuts and part alignment
  • Protects tables from hobby knife and loose nippers

What to know

  • Warps over time if stored rolled up — store flat
  • A4 can feel small once you move to MG builds
See on Amazon →
Going deeper

Your first Gundam build

Every Gunpla builder remembers their first kit. Here's what actually happens — and what makes the difference between a satisfying build and a frustrating one.

Read the guide →
Save your money

What you don't need yet

Beginners get pressured to buy a lot of stuff that doesn't help them play better. Here's what we'd skip on day one.

  • An airbrush — Amazing results are possible with top coat and markers alone. Get 5+ kits built before you invest in an airbrush, compressor, and the learning curve that comes with them.
  • Perfect Grade (PG) kits — 500+ parts, $250+, and they punish any bad habits from beginner builds. PG is a reward for a builder, not a starting point.
  • Scribing tools — Used to add panel lines that don't exist on the kit. Total overkill until you can build and finish a kit cleanly from what's already there.
  • Resin garage kits — Resin is a totally different skill set — cleanup, priming, sanding casting defects. Start with injection-plastic Bandai kits. Resin is a post-graduation project.
  • Water-slide decal set — Decals elevate a finished kit, but the application requires a sealed surface and patience. Learn on dry-transfer stickers from the kit itself first.
First week

Your first seven days

A short, real plan to get from gear-on-doorstep to actually playing.

  1. Order your first HG kit before the week is over — the physical object in your hands is what makes the hobby click. · Buy
  2. Order Tamiya nippers at the same time as the kit — they ship quickly and you don't want to start without them. · Buy
  3. Read the instruction manual front to back before you start building. Bandai manuals are visual and intuitive — this preview run prevents the most common assembly mistakes. · Action
  4. Cut parts from the runner in two steps: cut a few millimeters from the part first, then trim flush on the second pass. This is called 'two-pass cutting' and it eliminates most gate marks. · Learn
  5. Panel line your first kit after full assembly, before top coat. Practice the Gundam Marker technique on the inside of a part first to get the flow and wipe timing right. · Action
  6. Top coat outside or near an open window in light sweeping passes. Let it dry 20-30 minutes before handling. This step is what takes a kit from 'plastic toy' to 'finished model.' · Action
FAQ

Common questions

What grade should a complete beginner start with?

HG (High Grade, 1/144 scale) is the right answer for nearly every new builder. The kits are $20-35, snap-fit cleanly, look great without painting, and give you real experience with tools and technique without overwhelming you. Entry Grade works if you want the simplest possible first build. Avoid MG, RG, and PG until you've finished at least two or three HG kits.

Do I need to paint my Gunpla?

No. Modern Bandai kits are color-accurate straight from the box — the molded plastic colors match the mobile suit design. Panel lining the recessed grooves with a Gundam Marker and sealing with a matte top coat is 80% of the visual impact that painting achieves at 20% of the effort. Most builders go paint-free for years and are happy with the results.

What are nub marks and how do I avoid them?

Nub marks are the small white stress marks left where you cut a part from the runner. They happen when the plastic is compressed during cutting. The fix: use sharp nippers (Tamiya or God Hand) and cut in two passes — first a few millimeters from the part, then trim flush on the second cut. Sanding with 400-grit and then 1000-grit sandpaper removes any remaining marks.

How long does a typical HG kit take to build?

Most HG kits take 3-8 hours to assemble fully, depending on complexity and your pace. First kits always take longer while you learn the two-pass cutting technique and reading Bandai's instruction style. An MG kit runs 15-30 hours. Don't rush — the process is the hobby.

Is Gunpla a good hobby for apartments?

Yes, with a caveat: the building process is entirely apartment-friendly (no fumes, no mess beyond plastic shavings). The one exception is top coating — lacquer sprays need ventilation. Spray outside, near an open window, or on a balcony. Many builders do this in the hallway or on a fire escape with no issues.

What's the difference between HG, RG, MG, and PG?

HG (High Grade) is 1/144 scale, 150-300 parts, 3-8 hours. RG (Real Grade) is also 1/144 but with a complex inner frame and 300-500 parts. MG (Master Grade) is 1/100 scale with a full inner frame, 300-600 parts, 15-30 hours. PG (Perfect Grade) is 1/60 scale, 500+ parts, and can take 40+ hours. Start with HG.

Going further

Where to next

Authoritative sources

  • r/Gunpla — The largest Western Gunpla community. Beginner megathread is pinned and comprehensive. Post your WIP photos — the community is welcoming and technically helpful.
  • Bandai Hobby Site — The official source for all kit grades, release announcements, and build instructions. Check here when you're unsure about a kit's grade or complexity.
  • GundamInfo — Official anime streaming site for Gundam series. Understanding which timeline your kit comes from makes the build feel more meaningful.
  • Gunpla Tutorial Series (YouTube — Syd Mead) — Search for HG beginner build tutorials — multiple creators run excellent step-by-step series. Watching one build-through before your first kit prevents most beginner mistakes.
  • Hobby Link Japan — The most reliable source for kits not available on Amazon, especially older HGUC and rare releases. Ships internationally.
  • Dalong.net — Unofficial review database with runner shots, part counts, and build photos for nearly every kit ever released. Check here before buying an unfamiliar kit.
black iphone 4 on white table

Photo by shri on Unsplash