FAQ
Common questions
What metal should I start with for chainmaille?
Anodized aluminum, without question. It's cheap (pennies per ring), lightweight, forgiving on technique, and comes in every color. Learn on aluminum until you can close rings cleanly and consistently, then move to copper or sterling silver for finished pieces worth keeping.
Do I really need two pliers?
Yes. Every chainmaille technique requires holding a ring open with one plier while threading and closing it with the other. One plier is not workable. Both must be smooth-jaw with no serrations; toothed jaws mar soft metals.
What weave should I learn first?
Start with a simple 2-in-2 chain to learn ring mechanics, then move to Byzantine. Byzantine is the weave that hooks most beginners: it looks intricate, but the lock-and-release pattern repeats once you understand it, and the result is actually wearable.
How is chainmaille different from jewelry-making?
Chainmaille uses no solder, no wire-wrapping, and no heat. You work entirely by opening and closing pre-cut metal rings with two pliers and weaving them together. The tools are simpler and the barrier to entry is lower. It's its own distinct craft with its own deep community.
How much does it cost to start chainmaille?
About $35-40 for the basics: a ring assortment ($12-15), two pliers ($15-20), and a clasp pack ($5-8). A project kit adds another $15-25 but makes the first piece much easier. Total under $65 for a solid first setup.
Can I make my own rings instead of buying pre-cut ones?
Yes, eventually. You coil wire around a mandrel and cut the rings with flush cutters or a ring saw. But it adds complexity at the start. Buy pre-cut rings until you know which gauges and inner diameters you actually use, then decide if making your own is worth it.