JustBeginning
Beginner's guide

So you're getting into cyanotype printing

Cyanotype is the oldest photographic process still in regular use. You coat paper with two iron compounds, press objects or a film negative on top, expose to UV light, and rinse in water. Prussian blue appears. No darkroom, no enlarger, no film scanner. The whole setup costs less than $60 to start and makes prints that look like nothing else in photography.

By Colin B. · Published June 13, 2026 · Last reviewed June 13, 2026
person brushing sensitizer onto paper in an alternative photography process

Photo by laura adai on Unsplash

The 60-second version

If you only buy 3 things to start:

  1. Jacquard Cyanotype Sensitizer Set — Pre-mixed cyanotype sensitizer that gets you coating paper same-day. No measuring, no lab equipment, just results.
  2. Dorhui 60W UV LED Exposure Unit — A 60W UV LED panel gives consistent 2-4 minute exposures year-round. Removes the biggest variable in learning.
  3. Fabriano Artistico 140 lb Hot Press Block, 12x18 — 100% cotton watercolor paper that holds sensitizer evenly and survives wet processing without disintegrating.
Budget total
$40
Typical total
$110
A SunPrint kit and direct sunlight gets you started for $20. Proper watercolor paper, a UV lamp, and Jacquard chemistry brings it to around $100-120 total.

We earn commission on qualifying Amazon purchases — see our affiliate disclosure. Price tiers and budget totals shown above are editorial estimates; actual Amazon prices vary.

At a glance

Our top pick in each category

The fastest path through this guide — each best-starter pick by category. Scroll for the budget and upgrade alternatives.

CategoryTop pickPriceWhere to buy
Chemistry & KitsJacquardJacquard Cyanotype Sensitizer Set$$ See on Amazon →
SubstratesFabrianoFabriano Artistico 140 lb Hot Press Block, 12x18$$ See on Amazon →
UV Light SourceDorhuiDorhui 60W UV LED Exposure Unit$$ See on Amazon →
Coating ToolsPro ArtPro Art Hake Brush, 2-Inch$ See on Amazon →
Processing SuppliesUnbrandedDarkroom Print Developing Trays, 8x10, Set of 3$ See on Amazon →
Before you buy anything

A few things worth knowing first

Start with a pre-coated kit before you mix your own chemistry. Jacquard SunPrint paper lets you make your first cyanotype print the afternoon it arrives. Once you're hooked, mixing from raw chemistry saves money and gives you more control over results.

Sunlight works fine to start. A clear, sunny day gives you 5-15 minute exposures depending on season and latitude. A UV lamp just makes results consistent year-round and indoors. Try sunlight first; buy the lamp once you're printing regularly.

Cyanotype works on almost any porous surface. Paper is the entry point, but cotton fabric, canvas, and even wood take the sensitizer. Once you've mastered paper, that same two-part chemistry unlocks a much wider range of substrates.

The gear

What you actually need

Chemistry & Kits

Cyanotype chemistry is a two-part iron compound: ferric ammonium citrate (Part A) and potassium ferricyanide (Part B). Mix them in equal parts, brush onto any porous surface, let dry in the dark, expose to UV, and rinse in water. A pre-mixed liquid kit is the right call for beginners. You skip the measuring, get consistent sensitizer every time, and start printing same-day. Raw powder chemicals cost less per print once you're producing at volume, but they require accurate measuring and careful storage. Start liquid, switch to powders later if you want.

Chemistry & Kits — what's the difference?

A few common shapes, each making a different trade.

Pre-mixed Liquid Kit

Mix A+B equal parts; no measuring. The fastest start.

Setup
Mix and coat
Yield
~32 sheets 8x10
Shelf life
Mixed: days; unmixed: 1 yr

Best for Beginners; anyone who wants results on day one

Tradeoff More expensive per print than raw powders at volume

↓ See our pick
Raw Powder Chemistry

Measure and mix from powder. More economical at volume.

Setup
Weigh, dissolve, mix
Yield
Hundreds of sheets per kit
Shelf life
Powders: 3-5 years

Best for Frequent printers; those who want concentration control

Tradeoff Requires a small scale and distilled water; more involved handling

↓ See our pick
Pre-coated Paper

Zero mixing. Lay, expose, rinse. Highest cost per print.

Setup
Open the box
Yield
Fixed number of sheets
Shelf life
1-2 years unopened

Best for One-time projects; teaching workshops; gift sets

Tradeoff No control over chemistry; paper quality is limited

↓ See our pick
Best starter
Jacquard

Jacquard Cyanotype Sensitizer Set

$$

Jacquard's two-bottle liquid kit is the standard beginner entry point: pre-formulated and balanced chemistry, mix equal parts A and B, and you're coating paper same-day. Enough sensitizer for ~65 sheets of 8x10 on paper. Consistent results, no measuring equipment required.

What we like

  • Pre-formulated and balanced; no lab-scale measuring needed
  • Makes ~32 sheets of 8x10, enough to learn the whole process
  • Jacquard is the go-to brand in alternative photo printing

What to know

  • More expensive per print than raw powder chemistry at volume
  • Mixed sensitizer has a short shelf life; only mix what you'll use
See on Amazon →
Budget pick
Jacquard

Jacquard Cyanotype Kit for Sun Prints

$

A complete starter kit: pre-measured cyanotype chemistry, fine-art cyanotype paper, a glass printing frame, and accessories, all in one box. No sourcing individual components. It includes everything needed for your first session and costs less than buying the parts separately.

What we like

  • Zero setup: pre-coated paper works straight out of the box
  • Makes real cyanotype prints in sunlight with no chemistry handling
  • Under $20; a genuine no-risk way to try the process

What to know

  • Thin paper curls badly in the rinse; not suitable for framing
  • No control over chemistry; you can't adjust concentration or coating
See on Amazon →
Upgrade pick
Photographers' Formulary

Photographers' Formulary Cyanotype Kit (Dry)

$$

Raw powder chemistry from the printmaker's gold standard. Costs significantly less per print than liquid kits at volume. You mix your own solutions with distilled water and can dial concentration to your paper and exposure times. Photographers' Formulary is the brand used in fine art programs and by working alternative process photographers.

What we like

  • Raw powder is significantly cheaper per print at volume
  • Full control over solution concentration and chemistry ratios
  • Consistently pure; used in fine art programs worldwide

What to know

  • Requires accurate measuring and distilled water to mix properly
  • More complex storage and handling than pre-mixed liquid kits
See on Amazon →

Substrates

Not all paper works for cyanotype. You need something porous enough to absorb the chemistry and sturdy enough to survive wet processing without falling apart. The right choice is 100% cotton watercolor paper, 90-140 lb weight. Cheap drawing paper absorbs unevenly and disintegrates in the rinse. Cotton fabric is the other main substrate: cyanotype on muslin, canvas, or linen produces vivid blue prints you can sew into bags, shirts, or wall hangings. Start with paper until you've dialed in your exposure times.

Best starter
Fabriano

Fabriano Artistico 140 lb Hot Press Block, 12x18

$$

100% cotton, acid-free, and sized to hold sensitizer without bleed or uneven absorption. The 140 lb weight survives the wet rinse step without curling into a tube. The 12x18 block is a workable size that gives you multiple test strips per sheet. Fabriano Artistico is the paper working cyanotypists keep buying.

What we like

  • 100% cotton absorbs sensitizer evenly with no uncoated patches
  • 140 lb weight survives wet processing without warping badly
  • Acid-free; prints won't yellow or degrade over decades

What to know

  • More expensive than generic drawing paper
  • Hot-press can require a pre-wet step for even coating
See on Amazon →
Specialty pick
Unbranded

Natural Cotton Muslin Fabric, 60-Inch Wide

$

Cyanotype on natural cotton muslin opens up different creative territory. Pre-washed 100% cotton takes the sensitizer beautifully and produces vivid blue prints on material you can sew into tote bags, bandanas, or wall hangings. The natural ecru background gives the blue a warm, earthy tone. Avoid any fabric with softener residue.

What we like

  • Takes cyanotype chemistry beautifully; rich Prussian blue on white
  • Printed fabric is washable and permanent after a 24-hour cure
  • Inexpensive; one yard gives you multiple printing surfaces

What to know

  • Must be pre-washed and free of fabric softener before coating
  • Requires longer exposure times than paper; dial in with test strips
See on Amazon →

UV Light Source

Cyanotype is UV-sensitive, which means outdoor sunlight on a clear day works fine as your exposure source. On a sunny day, exposures run 5-15 minutes depending on season and latitude. The problem is consistency: clouds, angle, and time of day make results unpredictable while you're learning. A UV LED lamp gives you the same 2-4 minute exposure every time, indoors, in any weather. For small prints up to 4x5 inches, a UV nail curing lamp under $30 is a legitimate hack. For regular 8x10 work, a 36-54W flat panel lamp is the right investment.

Best starter
Dorhui

Dorhui 60W UV LED Exposure Unit

$$

A tabletop UV exposure unit removes the biggest variable in cyanotype: inconsistent sunlight. This 60W panel is explicitly marketed for cyanotypes and handles A4 and larger prints comfortably, giving consistent 2-4 minute exposures year-round. The difference between sunlight and a controlled lamp is immediately obvious in edge sharpness and repeatability.

What we like

  • Consistent 2-4 minute exposures every time regardless of weather
  • Covers 8x10 prints comfortably with even UV distribution
  • Pays for itself quickly in consistent, repeatable results

What to know

  • Adds $50-80 to the startup cost versus sunlight
  • Requires eye protection; don't stare directly into the panel
See on Amazon →
Budget pick
Gellen

Gellen 36W UV LED Nail Lamp

$

A UV nail lamp works for wallet-sized and 4x5 prints and costs under $30. The UV wavelength is right for cyanotype; exposure times run 3-6 minutes. The print area is limited to the size of the lamp's bed. It's a real creative constraint, but many cyanotypists deliberately work small. A legitimate starting hack before committing to a larger lamp.

What we like

  • Under $30 and genuinely functional for small-format cyanotype work
  • Consistent UV output; much more predictable than sunlight

What to know

  • Print area limited to roughly 4x5 inches; no 8x10 work
  • Slower exposure times than a full UV panel for the same paper
See on Amazon →

Coating Tools

The coating step shapes your results more than any other variable. You're spreading a thin, even layer of sensitizer across paper, and brush marks show in the final print. A wide hake brush (flat, 2-3 inches, Japanese style) glides across paper in long parallel strokes and produces the smoothest coverage. Work quickly without going back over wet sensitizer, which lifts and streaks. Foam brushes are cheaper and functional, but leave slightly more visible texture and degrade after a dozen or so sessions. Coat under dim indoor light, not in direct sunlight or by a bright window.

Best starter
Pro Art

Pro Art Hake Brush, 2-Inch

$

A hake brush has a wide, flat head with soft hair that glides across paper without drag or streaking. Two or three long parallel passes evenly coat an 8x10 sheet. This is what most working cyanotypists and alternative process photographers use for good reason: it's fast, even, and produces clean prints.

What we like

  • Soft, wide head produces smooth, even sensitizer coverage
  • Long parallel strokes coat an 8x10 sheet in under 20 seconds
  • Rinses clean with water; lasts years with proper care

What to know

  • Requires confident, quick strokes; hesitation causes streaks
  • Hake hair sheds occasionally; check the print edge for stray hairs
See on Amazon →
Budget pick
Bates

Bates Foam Paint Brushes, 20-Pack

$

Foam brushes work for cyanotype coating and cost almost nothing. The texture left in the sensitizer coat is slightly more visible in the final print than with a hake brush, but many cyanotypists like that organic quality. Replace them every 10-15 sessions as the foam compresses and starts applying unevenly.

What we like

  • Inexpensive starter option before committing to a proper brush
  • Some cyanotypists prefer the subtle textured look foam leaves

What to know

  • Foam compresses over time and starts applying unevenly
  • Less smooth coverage than a hake brush on large print areas
See on Amazon →

Processing Supplies

After exposure, the print develops in plain tap water. You'll want two or three plastic trays: one for the initial clearing rinse (where unexposed sensitizer washes away as a greenish-yellow tinge) and one or two more for final washing. A contact printing frame presses your transparency film or objects flat against the sensitized paper during exposure, keeping the image sharp. A piece of glass with binder clips is the improvised version and genuinely works. A hinged contact frame is faster to load and unload repeatedly. No additional chemicals are needed beyond water; the iron chemistry is entirely self-developing.

Best starter
Unbranded

Darkroom Print Developing Trays, 8x10, Set of 3

$

You need at least two trays every session: one for the initial clearing rinse and one for the final wash. A three-tray set gets you into a clean water washing sequence that removes all residual sensitizer. These lightweight plastic trays are exactly the right depth, easy to stack for storage, and last for years.

What we like

  • Three trays enables a proper sequential washing sequence
  • 8x10 size fits standard cyanotype paper without folding
  • Lightweight plastic cleans easily and stacks flat for storage

What to know

  • Thin plastic warps slightly if you use boiling water
  • Trays are not color-coded; mark them with tape to avoid mix-ups
See on Amazon →
Specialty pick
Photographers' Formulary

Photographers' Formulary 8x10 Contact Print Frame

$$

The definitive wooden contact printing frame for alternative processes. Oak construction with a felt-lined hinged back and pressure clips that press your negative and paper together edge-to-edge. A glass pane with binder clips works as a starting substitute; this frame is faster to load, gives more consistent sharpness, and lasts decades. Note: often backordered; order early.

What we like

  • Hinged back allows you to check registration mid-exposure
  • Spring tension presses negative and paper together edge-to-edge

What to know

  • More expensive than a glass pane and binder clips
  • Spring tension weakens over years; check corner pressure periodically
See on Amazon →
Going deeper

Your first afternoon of cyanotype printing

Cyanotype turns iron chemistry and UV light into vivid Prussian-blue images. No darkroom, no enlarger, no film scanner. Just two chemicals, a brush, paper, and sunlight. Your first real print can happen this afternoon.

Read the guide →
Save your money

What you don't need yet

Beginners get pressured to buy a lot of stuff that doesn't help them play better. Here's what we'd skip on day one.

  • A vacuum exposure frame — Commercial vacuum units pull perfect contact across a print. A glass pane and binder clips give you 90% of the result for free.
  • Gold or tea toning chemicals — Toning changes finished prints from cyan-blue to brown or sepia. Interesting, but explore it after you've mastered basic exposure and processing.
  • Dedicated negative-making RIP software — Free tools like GIMP or Photoshop invert and print digital negatives just as well as expensive raster image processing software.
  • A professional UV exposure unit — Industrial units are consistent and fast but cost $300-500+. A tabletop UV lamp delivers the same results for a fraction of the price.
  • A sensitometry kit — Exposure test strips and densitometers are useful for precision calibration. Figure out exposure times by observation first; measure later if you want more precision.
First week

Your first seven days

A short, real plan to get from gear-on-doorstep to actually playing.

  1. Order the Jacquard Cyanotype Set and a pad of 140 lb watercolor paper so both arrive together. · Buy
  2. Set up a dark prep area: a drawer, cardboard box, or closet shelf where coated paper can dry away from light. · Action
  3. Mix Part A and Part B in equal parts under dim indoor light. Brush 4-6 sheets with a hake brush in long, parallel strokes. · Action
  4. Let sheets dry completely in the dark for at least 1-2 hours before exposing. Partially dry paper gives flat, underexposed prints. · Action
  5. Make your first photograms: press flat objects (keys, leaves, scissors, feathers) onto a dried sheet and expose in direct sunlight or under the UV lamp. · Action
  6. Rinse exposed prints in a tray of tap water and watch Prussian blue emerge from the greenish-yellow coating. Run two rinses. · Action
  7. Evaluate your exposure. Too light and washed out means more UV time. Too dark with lost shadow detail means less time. Adjust and reprint. · Action
  8. Try your first digital negative: print a high-contrast photo inverted to negative on transparency film and use it in the contact frame. · Action
FAQ

Common questions

Do I need a darkroom to print cyanotypes?

No. Cyanotype chemistry is far less sensitive than traditional photographic paper. You mix and coat in dim indoor light, avoiding direct sun and bright windows, dry in a dark drawer or box, then expose and rinse in full daylight. No dedicated darkroom required.

Can I just use sunlight instead of a UV lamp?

Absolutely, and most beginners start this way. On a clear sunny day, exposure times run 5-15 minutes depending on season and latitude. The downside is consistency: a passing cloud mid-exposure changes your result. Sunlight is a great way to start; buy a UV lamp once you're printing regularly and want repeatability.

Is the chemistry dangerous?

Mildly. Ferric ammonium citrate is relatively benign. Potassium ferricyanide is a mild skin irritant and should be kept away from strong acids (it releases hydrogen cyanide gas in contact with acid, but this won't happen in normal printing). Wear gloves, work in a ventilated space, and label your bottles.

How long do cyanotype prints last?

Well-kept cyanotype prints can last 100+ years. The Prussian blue pigment is chemically stable. The main risks are prolonged bright-light exposure (colors fade over years) and alkaline environments like some framing materials. Use acid-free matting and avoid displaying prints in direct sunlight.

Can I print from a digital photograph?

Yes. Print an inverted (negative) version of your photo onto transparency film using an inkjet printer. The digital negative goes directly on the sensitized paper in your contact printing frame. Free tools like GIMP handle the inversion; some people add a contrast curve to match the process's response.

How do I know if my exposure time is correct?

Make a test strip: cover a coated sheet in sections with cardboard, exposing each strip 30-60 seconds longer. The correctly exposed strip will show full Prussian blue in the highlights and open shadow detail after rinsing. This is faster than guessing and works regardless of season, latitude, or paper brand.

Going further

Where to next

Related hobbies

Browse by category

Authoritative sources

  • The Book of Alternative Photographic Processes — Christopher James — The most thorough technical reference for cyanotype and alternative processes. Heavy and expensive, but the definitive text. Worth it once you're hooked.
  • Cyanotype.ca — Practical cyanotype reference site with formulas, exposure guides, and substrate information. One of the most reliable free resources online.
  • r/cyanotype — Active community sharing prints, troubleshooting exposure and chemistry problems, and discussing substrates. Good place to post your first prints and ask questions.
  • Mike Ware's Cyanotype Process Research — Chemist and printmaker Mike Ware's detailed technical writing on the classic and new cyanotype processes. Denser than most guides but authoritative on the chemistry.
  • Film Photography Project — Broader alternative process community that covers cyanotype alongside lumen prints, anthotypes, and other non-silver processes. Good for context and inspiration.

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