JustBeginning
Beginner's guide

So you're getting into taxidermy

Taxidermy is one of the few craft skills where people assume it requires professional training, then discover it's entirely learnable at home. Fish and small mammal mounts are genuinely accessible with the right supplies and a little patience. Here's exactly what to buy first, and what to wait on.

By Colin B. · Published July 12, 2026 · Last reviewed July 12, 2026
A taxidermy workbench with animal forms, sculpting tools, and materials

Photo by Albert Klein on Unsplash

The 60-second version

If you only buy 3 things to start:

  1. Tan-a-Fur Skin Kit — A complete small-game tanning kit with every chemical step covered for squirrel, rabbit, or fox.
  2. 20 Mule Team Borax (4 lb) — Borax is the backbone of basic preservation and this is the standard 4-lb box.
  3. DakotaLine Wiebe 12-Inch Flesher — A proper fleshing knife is what separates a clean hide from a ruined one.
Budget total
$80
Typical total
$200
A basic fish mount kit with borax and eyes runs $80-120. A proper small mammal setup with forms and tanning chemicals lands at $150-250.

We earn commission on qualifying Amazon purchases — see our affiliate disclosure. Price tiers and budget totals shown above are editorial estimates; actual Amazon prices vary.

At a glance

Our top pick in each category

The fastest path through this guide — each best-starter pick by category. Scroll for the budget and upgrade alternatives.

CategoryTop pickPriceWhere to buy
Tanning KitsAdvanced Tanning SolutionsTan-a-Fur Skin Kit$$ See on Amazon →
Sculpting & FillersAvesAves Apoxie Sculpt 2-Part Modeling Compound (1 lb, Natural)$$ See on Amazon →
ToolsDakotaLineDakotaLine Wiebe 12-Inch Flesher$ See on Amazon →
Chemicals20 Mule Team20 Mule Team Borax (4 lb)$ See on Amazon →
EyesMegan's Beaded DesignsMegan's Beaded Designs Whitetail Deer Glass Eyes, Dark Brown (30mm)$ See on Amazon →
Before you buy anything

A few things worth knowing first

Start with fish or a small mammal, not a deer. A largemouth bass or a squirrel is the taxidermy equivalent of a beginner woodworking project. The skinning process is shorter, the forms are cheaper, and you can learn the technique without committing hours to a large animal.

Expect to make mistakes on your first two mounts. Taxidermy is a craft skill, and the skill lives in your hands, not in your kit. Your first mount will have issues. Your third will look good. Your sixth will look great. Plan accordingly.

Smell is real, and preparation is the fix. A well-prepped hide with the right chemicals (borax, Stop-Rot) eliminates the odor problem beginners fear. Skipping the prep steps is what causes the smell, not the hobby itself.

The gear

What you actually need

Tanning Kits

A tanning kit gives you every chemical step in one purchase: pickle, tan, and finish. Advanced Tanning Solutions makes the most-used kits for beginners in the US. The Tan-a-Fur is for small game (squirrel, rabbit, fox); the Tan-a-Hide is for deer and large mammals. Note: foam forms for mounting must be ordered from specialty suppliers like McKenzie (mckenziesp.com) or Van Dyke's (vandyketaxidermy.com) since they aren't sold on Amazon.

Best starter
Advanced Tanning Solutions

Tan-a-Fur Skin Kit

$$

Our rating

The Tan-a-Fur kit covers every chemical step for small-game skins: salt, pickle, tan, and finish. Designed for squirrel, rabbit, fox, raccoon, and coyote. Made in the USA by Advanced Tanning Solutions, the most-used beginner tanning brand. Enough chemistry for several mounts, with instructions that actually explain what each step does.

What we like

  • Covers every chemical step: salt, pickle, tan, and finish in one box
  • Designed for squirrel, rabbit, fox, and raccoon, the right beginner animals
  • Made in USA; instructions explain the why behind each step

What to know

  • Tanning only; foam forms and glass eyes are ordered separately
  • Kit is for flat tanning and small-scale mounting; not for deer or large animals
See on Amazon →
Upgrade pick
Advanced Tanning Solutions

Tan-a-Hide Kit

$$$

Our rating

Once you're ready for deer, elk, or bear work, the Tan-a-Hide Kit covers the full large-mammal tanning process. Includes the pickle solution, tanning formula, and hide oil you'll need for a shoulder mount that stays pliable and odor-free for decades. Upgrade to this after your first 2-3 small-game mounts.

What we like

  • Covers full large-mammal tanning: pickle, tan, and conditioning oil
  • Same trusted brand as Tan-a-Fur; familiar process at larger scale
  • Includes enough chemistry for a deer cape or equivalent large hide

What to know

  • More than you need for small game; overkill for a first squirrel mount
  • Deer-scale fleshing requires a fleshing beam not included in this kit
See on Amazon →

Sculpting & Fillers

After the hide is tanned and fitted to the form, you'll use sculpting compound to build out the eye sockets, fill gaps around the nose and ears, and seal any places where the skin doesn't lie flush against the foam. Aves Apoxie Sculpt is the industry standard for this detail work; it stays workable for 2-3 hours and hardens permanently without baking. The ALL Game Epoxy Putty is the heavier-duty option for form repairs and larger fills.

Best starter
Aves

Apoxie Sculpt 2-Part Modeling Compound (1 lb, Natural)

$$

Our rating

Apoxie Sculpt is the go-to modeling compound for taxidermy detail work. Mix equal parts A and B and get a clay-like compound that stays workable for 2-3 hours before hardening permanently with zero shrinkage. Use it to build eye sockets, fill nostril and ear detail, and seal gaps around the face. One pound handles 10-15 mounts.

What we like

  • Stays workable 2-3 hours; hardens permanently with zero shrinkage
  • Used by working taxidermists for eye socket prep and face detail
  • Takes paint well after curing; smooth finish on most applications

What to know

  • Wear nitrile gloves; skin contact with part B can irritate
  • 1-lb is more than most beginners use on a first mount; 1/4-lb also available
See on Amazon →
Specialty pick
ALL Game

3 lb Epoxy Putty Kit

$$

Our rating

ALL Game is formulated specifically for taxidermy: used to rebuild facial anatomy, fill large gaps between hide and form, and repair foam forms that arrived with imperfections. The 3-lb kit is the bulk buy for anyone doing multiple large-animal mounts in a season. Sets in 30-45 minutes and cures to a paintable, sandable surface.

What we like

  • Specifically formulated for taxidermy; not a repurposed general compound
  • Three-pound kit covers a full season of large-animal detail work
  • Sets to a paintable, sandable surface that takes hide paste cleanly

What to know

  • 3 lbs is overkill for a first mount; more than a beginner will use
  • Sets in 30-45 minutes; don't mix more than you'll use in one session
See on Amazon →

Tools

The fleshing tool is the most important piece of equipment in taxidermy. It's what you use to scrape fat and membrane off the inside of the hide. Done right, the skin is clean and the mount lasts decades; done wrong, it rots. You'll also need a good scalpel handle with sharp blades for skinning, and heavy upholstery needles for closing the incision after mounting.

Best starter
DakotaLine

Wiebe 12-Inch Flesher

$

Our rating

The DakotaLine Wiebe Flesher is the standard beginner fleshing tool used by trappers and taxidermists. Dual-edge design scrapes fat and membrane off the inside of a hide with less risk of gouging than a single-edge blade. Referenced in more beginner taxidermy tutorials than any other fleshing tool. Under $15 and worth buying a second when the first wears.

What we like

  • Standard beginner fleshing tool referenced in most taxidermy tutorials
  • Dual-edge design reduces gouging risk versus single-edge alternatives
  • Under $15; easy to replace when the edge wears

What to know

  • Requires practice on face and neck areas where hide is thinnest
  • Fleshing knife style; not the same as a traditional wire-loop fleshing tool
See on Amazon →
Specialty pick
Swann Morton

No.10 Scalpel Blades + No.3 Handle

$

Our rating

Used by surgeons and taxidermists alike, the Swann Morton No.3 handle with a box of No.10 blades is the right skinning tool. Sharper than any box cutter, replaceable blades mean you always start a session fresh. Swap the blade every 20-30 minutes of actual cutting; a dull blade tears skin instead of cutting it.

What we like

  • Medical-grade sharpness makes clean incisions through tough hide
  • Replaceable blades keep every skinning session starting sharp
  • Handle and 100-blade box bundled; one order covers many mounts

What to know

  • Razor sharp; a cut-resistant glove on the non-dominant hand is worth it
  • Blades sold with this set are No.10 size; a No.4 handle fits heavier blades
See on Amazon →
Budget pick
John James

Saddler's Harness Needles, Size 002 (25-Pack)

$

Our rating

Every skin incision you make has to be sewn closed on the form, and heavy saddler's harness needles push through thick mammal hide without bending. John James makes the go-to heavy needle for leather and hide sewing. The blunt tip that lets you find stitch holes without splitting the skin unexpectedly.

What we like

  • Blunt tip designed for sewing through pre-punched holes in thick hide
  • Heavy gauge handles mammal hide without bending under pressure
  • John James is the standard needle brand in leather and hide sewing

What to know

  • Straight needles only; curved varieties also useful for awkward body seams
  • Sold in packs of 25; most beginners use 3-5 needles per mount
See on Amazon →

Chemicals

Preservation is what makes taxidermy work long-term. Borax is the baseline, it desiccates the hide and deters insects, and it has been the standard in taxidermy for over a century. Stop-Rot prevents bacterial decomposition during the fleshing and drying window. Skip these steps and the mount develops an odor within a year. The chemistry isn't optional.

Best starter
20 Mule Team

Borax (4 lb)

$

Our rating

The 20 Mule Team box from the laundry aisle is the same borax taxidermists have used for generations. Pack the inside of the fleshed hide generously before mounting to desiccate the skin and deter insects. A 4-lb box handles 6-10 small mammal mounts and costs under $10. No substitute at this price.

What we like

  • Standard preservation chemical used by taxidermists for over a century
  • One 4-lb box handles 6-10 small mammal mounts for about $8
  • Available at any grocery or hardware store as a backup source

What to know

  • Desiccation only, not a true tan for deer or large mammals
  • Must be applied thoroughly; missed spots invite insects over time
See on Amazon →
Upgrade pick
Advanced Tanning Solutions

NuTan 1 Gallon Tanning Formula

$$

Our rating

Once you've done several borax mounts and want professional-grade results, NuTan is the standalone tanning formula used for deer, moose, elk, fox, and rabbit hides. Unlike a full kit, this is just the active tanning solution, letting you build your own chemical workflow once you understand what each step does. One gallon handles multiple large-animal hides.

What we like

  • Standalone tanning formula; use it in your own workflow once you know the steps
  • Covers deer, moose, elk, fox, and rabbit hides from one gallon
  • Made in USA by Advanced Tanning Solutions; same brand as the Tan-a-Fur kit

What to know

  • Tanning solution only; you'll need pickle and oil products separately
  • Overkill for your first 3-5 borax-level practice mounts
See on Amazon →
Three colorful abstract spheres on a light background

Photo by Łukasz Łada on Unsplash

Eyes

Glass eyes are what bring a mount to life, and buying the wrong size or color is an easy beginner mistake. Eyes are sold by species (deer, bass, squirrel, pheasant) and by size (measured in mm diameter). Buy 2-3 pairs for your first project, placing eyes is a learned skill and the first set often goes in at the wrong angle or depth. Most beginners underestimate how much eye placement affects the finished mount.

Eyes — what's the difference?

A few common shapes, each making a different trade.

Fish Eyes

Small, iridescent, species-specific. 10-25mm range.

Bass
12-16mm
Walleye/Pike
20-30mm
Trout/Panfish
10-14mm

Best for Anglers mounting bass, walleye, trout, or panfish

Tradeoff Each species needs its own color listing; don't assume one set fits all fish

↓ See our pick
Deer Eyes

Large, brown iris, white sclera. 28-34mm range.

Adult doe
30-32mm
Adult buck
32-34mm
Fawn
26-28mm

Best for Hunters doing whitetail shoulder mounts

Tradeoff Iris color (dark brown vs amber) varies by animal; photograph yours before skinning

↓ See our pick
Small Mammal Eyes

Small, dark iris. 8-14mm for squirrel, rabbit, fox.

Squirrel/Rabbit
10-12mm
Fox/Raccoon
14-18mm
Coyote
18-22mm

Best for Small game taxidermy on squirrel, rabbit, or fox

Tradeoff Tiny eyes are harder to set at the correct angle; buy an extra pair

Best starter
Megan's Beaded Designs

Whitetail Deer Glass Eyes, Dark Brown (30mm)

$

Our rating

Handmade in the USA from lead-free glass, these deer eyes are sized right for adult whitetail (30mm covers most does; 32-34mm for bucks). Professional taxidermy-grade eyes from Tohickon require ordering from specialty suppliers; these are the best glass eyes available on Amazon and give realistic results for beginner and intermediate mounts.

What we like

  • Handmade in the USA from lead-free glass, not mass-produced plastic
  • 30mm is the right size for most adult whitetail does
  • Available in multiple iris colors; order the shade that matches your animal

What to know

  • Half-sphere cabochon style; professional mounts use full-sphere Tohickon eyes
  • Color choice matters; photograph the deer's eye before skinning
See on Amazon →
Specialty pick
Megan's Beaded Designs

Walleye Fish Glass Eyes (30mm)

$

Our rating

Fish eyes are iridescent and species-specific in a way mammal eyes aren't. The walleye iridescent glass eye is the right choice for walleye, pike, and similar predator fish. For bass, use the 12-16mm 'Realistic Bass Fish Glass Eyes' (separate listing). Megan's fish eyes have the right glassy-iridescent quality fish eyes need.

What we like

  • Iridescent finish matches the reflective quality of real fish eyes
  • Multiple size options; order the size matching your specific fish

What to know

  • Walleye-specific coloring; bass, trout, and panfish need different listings
  • Fish eye placement requires patience; the angles are easy to get wrong
See on Amazon →
Going deeper

Your first month of taxidermy

Most people assume taxidermy is inaccessible without formal training. It isn't. Here's what your first month actually looks like, from choosing a specimen to hanging a finished mount on the wall.

Read the guide →
Save your money

What you don't need yet

Beginners get pressured to buy a lot of stuff that doesn't help them play better. Here's what we'd skip on day one.

  • An airbrush — Acrylic touch-up pens and a fine detail brush handle fish repainting at beginner level. An airbrush is a real upgrade, but only after you've done several mounts.
  • A fleshing beam — Fleshing beams are for deer-scale and larger work. For small mammals and fish, a hand tool on a covered workbench is all you need.
  • Commercial tanning salts — Borax covers your first 5-10 small mammal and bird mounts. Move to a proper tan only after you've confirmed the hobby will stick.
  • Sculpting clay — Useful for face and nose detail work on mammals, but that's an intermediate technique. Get three mounts done without it first.
  • A vacuum freeze dryer — Used for small animal and pet preservation. Costs $3,000-10,000. Firmly in the professional column, ignore it for your first few years.
First week

Your first seven days

A short, real plan to get from gear-on-doorstep to actually playing.

  1. Watch 2-3 complete beginner taxidermy tutorials on YouTube before buying anything. · Learn
  2. Choose your first project (fish, squirrel, or small bird) before ordering anything. The choice determines which form and kit you buy. · Action
  3. Order your starter kit and borax first. Order the form only after you've measured your specimen. · Buy
  4. Set up a dedicated workspace, a workbench with a plastic cover, good lighting, and ventilation. Taxidermy is messier than most craft hobbies. · Action
  5. If working with a fresh animal, freeze it in a sealed plastic bag until your supplies arrive. Don't refrigerate longer than 24 hours. · Action
  6. Order glass eyes once you know your species and have measured the eye socket on the form. · Buy
FAQ

Common questions

Is taxidermy legal to do at home?

For game animals you've legally harvested and fish you've legally caught, yes, no permit needed for personal use in most states. Migratory birds (songbirds, waterfowl) are protected by the Migratory Bird Treaty Act and require a federal permit. Don't attempt migratory bird taxidermy without one.

How much does a beginner taxidermy setup cost?

A basic fish mount setup (kit + form + borax + eyes) runs $80-120. A small mammal setup is similar. A deer shoulder mount setup with proper tanning chemicals runs $200-350 for your first one.

How long does a fish mount take?

Skinning and mounting takes 2-4 hours. Drying on the form takes 3-7 days. Painting and finishing takes another 2-3 hours after drying. Total wall-clock time is about a week from live specimen to finished mount.

Does taxidermy smell?

A properly done finished mount has no odor. The smell beginners fear comes from skipping prep steps. Apply Stop-Rot on fresh hides, flesh thoroughly, and pack with borax, done right, there's no lasting odor on the finished piece.

What's the easiest animal to start taxidermy with?

Fish, specifically panfish or bass. Skinning takes under 2 hours, forms are inexpensive and accurate, and the finished mount doesn't require the same fleshing skill as mammals. Squirrels and rabbits are the simplest mammal entry point.

Do I need formal training to learn taxidermy?

No. YouTube tutorials, supplier-produced guides, and the NTA's beginner resources have made self-teaching realistic. Many working taxidermists are entirely self-taught. A local workshop is useful for accelerated feedback, but it's not a prerequisite.

Going further

Where to next

Related hobbies

Browse by category

Authoritative sources

  • National Taxidermist Association — The professional body for taxidermists. Certification programs, forums, and a directory of accredited practitioners if you want to watch a pro work before going solo.
  • McKenzie Taxidermy Supply — The largest taxidermy supplier in the US. Forms, chemicals, tools, eyes, everything. Their catalog is a useful reference for what products exist before you start ordering.
  • Van Dyke's Taxidermy Supply — The other major supplier, with a strong selection of forms and educational DVDs for beginners.
  • Breakthrough Magazine — The trade magazine for taxidermists. Published quarterly. More useful once you're past the absolute beginner stage.
  • r/Taxidermy — Active community with beginner-friendly posting norms. Photo critique threads are genuinely useful for identifying what to improve on your own mounts.
  • Joe Coombs Taxidermy (YouTube) — The most-watched beginner taxidermy channel. Detailed, unhurried, covers fish and small mammal work thoroughly. Start here before any other resource.
Winter-themed wall decor with deer and snowshoes

Photo by Fujiphilm on Unsplash

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