JustBeginning
Beginner's guide

So you're building your first campervan

A van conversion is one of the most ambitious DIY projects you can take on — and one of the most rewarding. A functional build runs $3,000–$15,000 in materials, takes 2–8 weekends, and produces a home you built with your hands. Here's what to buy, what order matters, and what to skip.

By Colin B. · Published May 28, 2026 · Last reviewed May 28, 2026
woman in black jacket and blue denim jeans standing in front of brown wooden door

Photo by Clay Banks on Unsplash

The 60-second version

If you only buy 3 things to start:

  1. Maxxair MaxxFan Deluxe 00-07000K — The Maxxair fan cuts heat and condensation — the one van purchase you truly cannot work around.
  2. Renogy 100Ah 12V LiFePO4 Lithium Battery — A 100Ah LiFePO4 battery separates a frustrating build from a comfortable one. Worth every dollar.
  3. 3M Thinsulate SM600L Automotive Insulation — 3M Thinsulate SM600L — handles condensation without mold risk. Most builders never regret this choice.
Budget total
$3000
Typical total
$8000
A bare-bones liveable build runs $3,000–$5,000. Most first builds land at $6,000–$10,000 once you factor in a real electrical system, insulation, and kitchen.
At a glance

Our top pick in each category

The fastest path through this guide — each best-starter pick by category. Scroll for the budget and upgrade alternatives.

CategoryTop pickPriceWhere to buy
Insulation3M3M Thinsulate SM600L Automotive Insulation$$ See on Amazon →
Electrical SystemRenogyRenogy 100Ah 12V LiFePO4 Lithium Battery$$$ See on Amazon →
VentilationMaxxairMaxxair MaxxFan Deluxe 00-07000K$$$ See on Amazon →
FlooringClermontClermont Waterproof Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring$$ See on Amazon →
Sleeping SetupFoamTouchFoamTouch 4-Inch High-Density Upholstery Foam$$ See on Amazon →
Kitchen & CookingBougeRVBougeRV 30 Quart 12V Portable Car Refrigerator$$$ See on Amazon →
Before you buy anything

A few things worth knowing first

Measure everything before you buy anything. Write down your van's interior dimensions — height, width at the floor, width at the wheel wells, usable ceiling height. Every purchase assumes you know these numbers.

Draw a floor plan to scale. Knowing where the bed, kitchen, and seating go tells you where power outlets need to be, where you need blocking in the walls, and where the flooring runs. Skipping this step is the most expensive mistake first-time builders make.

Order your Maxxair fan and insulation first — both have lead time and neither can wait. The fan goes in before the ceiling panels, and insulation needs to be on hand before you start framing walls.

The gear

What you actually need

Insulation

Insulation is the first thing that goes in and the hardest to fix later. Van insulation differs from house insulation because you're fighting metal — steel walls that sweat condensation when warm air meets cold metal. The wrong insulation traps moisture behind your wall panels and grows mold you won't see until the van smells. 3M Thinsulate is the most popular choice among experienced builders because it's air-permeable (moisture passes through rather than accumulating), non-toxic, and easy to cut for curved van walls. Rigid foam board works for flat sections and the floor. Spray foam handles gaps.

Best starter
3M

3M Thinsulate SM600L Automotive Insulation

$$

Thinsulate is what most experienced builders end up on after trying something cheaper first. It's air-permeable — moisture passes through rather than accumulating behind wall panels — which is the only correct way to handle van condensation without a separate vapor barrier. Cuts with scissors, fits curved van walls, and has no off-gassing concerns. One roll covers about 50 sq ft.

What we like

  • Air-permeable — handles van condensation without a vapor barrier
  • Non-toxic, no off-gassing — safe to work with and sleep near
  • Cuts with scissors, conforms to curved van walls and wheel wells

What to know

  • More expensive per sq ft than rigid foam — budget 2-3 rolls minimum
  • Needs wall panels to hold it in place on vertical surfaces
See on Amazon →
Budget pick
Polyiso

Polyiso Rigid Foam Insulation Board (3")

$

Rigid polyiso foam has the best R-value per inch of any DIY insulation, cuts cleanly with a utility knife, and is cheap in bulk. It's the right choice for flat wall sections and under the floor. The condensation risk is real on metal walls — create a vapor break between the metal and foam — but done correctly, rigid foam is excellent insulation for a budget build.

What we like

  • Highest R-value per inch of any DIY insulation option
  • Cheap — cover the entire van floor for under $60
  • Rigid — doubles as a subfloor layer under vinyl plank

What to know

  • Requires careful vapor-sealing where foam contacts metal
  • Doesn't work in curved or irregular van wall sections
See on Amazon →
Specialty pick
Dow

Great Stuff Gaps & Cracks Insulating Foam Sealant

$

Not your primary insulation — use this to seal every gap, seam, and metal-to-wood transition after the main insulation is in. Van builds have hundreds of these small openings where cold bridges and moisture sneak in. Two or three cans used aggressively at the end of your insulation phase prevents the cold spots that make an otherwise good build miserable in winter.

What we like

  • Seals cold bridge gaps that insulation sheets can't reach
  • Expands to fill irregular shapes — perfect for van body seams

What to know

  • Expands 2-3x after application — use less than you think you need
  • A sealing finish, not a primary insulation substitute
See on Amazon →
Inflatable tent with bicycle and solar panel at campsite.

Photo by Hiboy on Unsplash

Electrical System

The electrical system transforms a van from a camping vehicle into a home. Your core system is battery + solar panel + charge controller. The charge controller sits between the solar panel and battery, preventing overcharge. The battery stores power for lights, fan, fridge, and charging. Most budget builds start with 100Ah; comfortable full-time builds use 200Ah+. The decision that matters most: battery chemistry. AGM (lead-acid) is cheaper upfront but heavy and gives you only 50% usable capacity. LiFePO4 costs 2-3x more but is lighter, lasts 10+ years, and gives 95%+ usable capacity. Weekend builds go AGM. Full-time builds almost always go lithium.

Electrical System — what's the difference?

A few common shapes, each making a different trade.

AGM / Lead-Acid

Cheapest entry. Heavy, bulky, only 50% of capacity is usable.

Upfront cost
$100–200 per 100Ah
Usable capacity
~50% of rated
Weight
60–70 lbs per 100Ah
Lifespan
3–5 years

Best for Budget builds, weekend use, builders still testing the lifestyle

Tradeoff Half the usable power you paid for; heavy; needs replacement sooner

↓ See our pick
LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate)

Best long-term pick. Lighter, 10+ year life, nearly full capacity usable.

Upfront cost
$250–400 per 100Ah
Usable capacity
~95% of rated
Weight
25–30 lbs per 100Ah
Lifespan
10+ years

Best for Full-time or frequent builds; anyone planning a 200Ah+ system

Tradeoff Higher upfront cost; requires lithium-compatible charge controller

↓ See our pick
Best starter
Renogy

Renogy 100Ah 12V LiFePO4 Lithium Battery

$$$

Renogy is the most common brand in DIY van electrical for a reason: reliable, well-supported, and their ecosystem (panels, controllers, inverters) plays together cleanly. The 100Ah LiFePO4 gives you ~95Ah of usable power — enough for a fan, LED lights, phone and laptop charging, and a 12V fridge. A solid first battery that still performs when you add a second one later.

What we like

  • 95% usable capacity — nearly double what AGM gives for same Ah rating
  • Renogy ecosystem integrates cleanly with their solar and controllers
  • Built-in BMS protects against over-charge, over-discharge, and heat

What to know

  • Requires lithium-compatible charge controller — AGM settings won't work
  • Roughly 2.5x the upfront cost of AGM per amp-hour
See on Amazon →
Budget pick
Renogy

Renogy 100Ah 12V AGM Deep Cycle Battery

$$

If you're not sure van life will stick, starting with a $130 AGM battery makes sense. You'll get roughly 50Ah of usable power — enough for lights, fan, and phone charging. It's heavy (about 60 lbs) and you can only discharge it halfway without shortening its life, but it's a real, functional start. Upgrade to lithium when you're committed.

What we like

  • Half the price of lithium — smart if you're still testing the lifestyle
  • Works with any standard charge controller — no compatibility concerns

What to know

  • 50% usable capacity — a 100Ah battery delivers only ~50Ah reliably
  • About 60 lbs — significantly heavier than a lithium equivalent
See on Amazon →
Specialty pick
BougeRV

BougeRV 200W Rigid Monocrystalline Solar Panel

$$

200 watts is the sweet spot for a single-battery van build — enough to fully recharge a 100Ah LiFePO4 in 4-5 hours of good sun, with headroom for cloudy days. BougeRV makes solid panels at better prices than Renogy for the same cell specs. Roof-mount with a proper kit; pair with an MPPT charge controller.

What we like

  • 200W fully recharges 100Ah lithium in 4-5 hours of direct sun
  • Competitive pricing vs Renogy for equivalent monocrystalline specs
  • Weatherproofed — tested for hail impact and high wind loads

What to know

  • Rigid — needs proper mounting hardware and won't flex to curved roofs
  • Must be paired with a charge controller — plan both purchases together
See on Amazon →
Upgrade pick
Renogy

Renogy 40A MPPT Solar Charge Controller

$$

Every solar system needs a charge controller, and MPPT is worth the premium over PWM — it extracts about 30% more power from your panels in real conditions. Renogy's 40A unit handles up to 500W of panels, growing with your system. Wire it between your solar panel and battery. Configure the charge profile for your battery chemistry — lithium and AGM settings are different.

What we like

  • MPPT extracts ~30% more power from panels vs PWM controllers
  • Handles up to 500W of panels — grows with your system
  • App-configurable charge profiles for lithium and AGM batteries

What to know

  • Requires Bluetooth app to set battery profile — can't skip this step
  • Overkill for a single 100W panel, but you'll be glad you have it later
See on Amazon →

Ventilation

A roof vent fan is not a luxury. It's the difference between a van you can sleep in and one you can't — interior temps on a sunny day hit 130°F without ventilation. The fan exhausts hot air and moisture from breathing, pulling fresh air through cracked windows. The Maxxair MaxxFan Deluxe is the industry standard: built-in rain cover so you can run it in wet weather, 10 speeds, a thermostat, and remote control. The install is permanent (you cut a 14" hole in your roof), so choose carefully and buy once.

Best starter
Maxxair

Maxxair MaxxFan Deluxe 00-07000K

$$$

The MaxxFan Deluxe is the unanimous choice among experienced van builders. The built-in lid cover means you can run it in rain — a huge deal when you're parked somewhere wet. Ten speeds, a thermostat, and remote control. It draws 2.5 amps at max speed, which a 100Ah battery handles all night. The one purchase in a van build you truly cannot work around.

What we like

  • Built-in rain cover — run it in any weather, all night
  • Thermostat auto-adjusts speed based on interior temperature
  • Remote control means you never have to leave bed to adjust it

What to know

  • Requires a permanent 14" roof cut — no undoing this
  • At $130–160, it's not cheap — but nothing else does the job as well
See on Amazon →
Budget pick
Fan-Tastic Vent

Fan-Tastic Vent 801200 Create-A-Breeze Roof Vent

$$

The Fan-Tastic 1200 is the original van fan with decades of RV use behind it. Durable, simple, three speeds, and both intake and exhaust modes. No thermostat or remote, but it works. A solid choice if Maxxair money isn't in the budget right now — and used models are plentiful at RV salvage yards.

What we like

  • Proven design with 30+ years of RV and van use behind it
  • Simple 3-speed operation — nothing complex to fail

What to know

  • No built-in rain cover — you must close it before rain
  • No thermostat or remote — manual adjustment required
See on Amazon →

Flooring

Van flooring is a two-layer job: a subfloor (1/4" plywood or rigid foam over the factory metal floor) plus a finish floor. Luxury vinyl plank (LVP) is the standard finish — waterproof, durable, warm underfoot, and it clicks together without glue. The subfloor levels the van's uneven metal floor and gives you something to anchor to. Budget 30–40 sq ft for a standard cargo van. LVP adds 3/4"–1" of height, so measure headroom before committing. The payoff: a van interior that feels like a finished room rather than a cargo hold.

Best starter
Clermont

Clermont Waterproof Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring

$$

Waterproof click-lock LVP is the standard van finish floor and Clermont is a solid mid-price pick on Amazon. The thickness gives real feel underfoot — solid without being heavy. Click-lock means no glue, no mess, and you can pull it up later if you need floor access. Warm wood tones make a van interior feel finished and liveable rather than industrial.

What we like

  • 100% waterproof — spills, wet boots, and condensation are fine
  • Click-lock install — no glue, removable if you need floor access
  • Looks and feels like a real finished floor, not a cargo van

What to know

  • Needs a flat, level subfloor — van metal floors require prep
  • Adds 3/4–1 inch of height — check headroom before committing
See on Amazon →
Budget pick
Achim

Achim Home Furnishings Tivoli Vinyl Floor Tiles

$

Self-adhesive vinyl tiles are the fastest, cheapest van floor you can lay — peel, press, done. Not as durable as LVP and edges lift over time on an uneven subfloor, but for a first build or a weekend van you're still figuring out, they're perfectly adequate. Buy 20% extra to account for cuts.

What we like

  • Under $30 to floor a full cargo van — by far the cheapest option
  • Peel-and-stick — no tools, no adhesive, done in under an hour

What to know

  • Edges lift in humid conditions or over uneven subfloor
  • Thinner and harder underfoot than LVP — noticeable on long trips
See on Amazon →
black and orange backpack on car seat

Photo by lucas Favre on Unsplash

Sleeping Setup

The bed is the highest-use surface in a van — you'll spend 8 hours a day in it. Most builds use a fixed platform (plywood frame with 4" foam) because it's simple, strong, and leaves storage underneath. The key question is bed orientation: lengthwise along one wall vs. width-side across the back. Lengthwise allows the best side-door access; width-side usually fits a wider sleeping surface. Decide this before you build any walls — the bed position determines where everything else goes. For foam: 4-inch high-density (1.8 lb/cu ft or higher) is the standard.

Best starter
FoamTouch

FoamTouch 4-Inch High-Density Upholstery Foam

$$

FoamTouch ships 4-inch high-density foam in a 24"x80" sheet that you cut to your exact platform dimensions with a serrated knife. High-density (1.8 lb/cu ft) means it won't compress flat under a heavier sleeper and lasts years of use — not camping-pad level, actual mattress comfort. Cut to fit before it ships if you order custom, or trim the standard sheet yourself.

What we like

  • Ships cut to your exact platform dimensions — no sawing needed
  • 1.8 lb density holds up for years without compressing flat
  • Real mattress comfort, not camping-pad level — you will actually sleep

What to know

  • Custom cut means no returns — measure twice, order once
  • Ships in 5-7 days — order early in your build timeline
See on Amazon →
Budget pick
Zinus

Zinus 4 Inch Foam Mattress, Twin

$

If your van platform is close to a standard mattress size — many fixed builds in Transit, ProMaster, and Sprinter are roughly twin XL — a standard Zinus is dramatically cheaper than custom foam and genuinely comfortable. Measure your platform against twin XL (38x80 inches) or twin (38x75) before ordering.

What we like

  • A third of the cost of custom foam — under $100 for a twin
  • Ships compressed — easier to load through van doors than a full mattress

What to know

  • Standard widths rarely match van platform widths exactly
  • Needs 48-72 hours to fully expand after shipping compression
See on Amazon →
white and black gas range oven

Photo by Clay Banks on Unsplash

Kitchen & Cooking

A van kitchen can be as simple or complex as your build demands. The non-negotiables are a stove and some way to keep food cold. A 2-burner propane stove and a 12V compressor fridge is the right baseline for most first builds. The 12V fridge is your biggest power draw — 3-5 amps continuous — which is why 100Ah battery minimum is non-negotiable if you want refrigeration. A quality stove and fridge is also where most van dwellers spend their happiest time. Get this part right.

Best starter
BougeRV

BougeRV 30 Quart 12V Portable Car Refrigerator

$$$

A 12V compressor fridge is the upgrade that makes long trips genuinely possible. Unlike a cooler, it maintains temperature without ice — no restocking, no soggy food. BougeRV's 30qt model draws 3-5 amps, fits a week of food, and works as both fridge and freezer. Wire it directly to your battery with an inline fuse. The single best quality-of-life purchase in most builds.

What we like

  • Works as fridge and freezer — no ice, no cooler logistics
  • 3-5A draw is manageable on 100Ah battery with daily solar
  • Dual-zone option chills drinks on one side, freezes on the other

What to know

  • Draws power 24/7 — needs working solar or battery runs flat overnight
  • At $200-300 it's not cheap, but replaces a daily ice-buying habit
See on Amazon →
Budget pick
Camp Chef

Camp Chef Everest 2-Burner Camping Stove

$$

Two burners, 20,000 BTU total, works on 1lb propane canisters or a larger tank. Camp Chef's build quality holds up to years of van use — cast iron grates, valves that don't develop leaks, and reliable lighting in cold weather. Keep it on a slide-out shelf; don't cook inside a sealed van — propane burns oxygen and produces CO.

What we like

  • 20,000 BTU total — real cooking power, not just boiling water
  • Cast iron grates and solid valves hold up to years of travel use
  • Works on 1lb canisters or adapts to a larger 20lb tank

What to know

  • Open flame — always ventilate and run a CO detector when cooking
  • Heavy for its size, though that doesn't matter when it lives in a van
See on Amazon →
Specialty pick
Mr. Heater

Mr. Heater Portable Buddy Indoor-Safe Propane Heater

$$

Not a stove — but it runs on the same 1lb propane canisters and solves the comfort problem insulation alone can't: cold nights in winter. The Buddy has an ODS sensor that shuts off automatically if oxygen drops and puts out 9,000 BTU — enough to heat a cargo van in minutes. The heater most builders use before committing to a diesel install.

What we like

  • ODS sensor shuts off if oxygen drops — safer than unmonitored heaters
  • 9,000 BTU heats a transit-size van in under 10 minutes
  • Runs on same 1lb propane canisters as the Camp Chef stove

What to know

  • Generates CO — always ventilate and run a detector, no exceptions
  • Burns through 1lb canisters fast — not a full-time winter solution
See on Amazon →
Going deeper

Your first 4 weekends of van conversion

Most people freeze at the start, overwhelmed by YouTube rabbit holes and conflicting advice. Here's the actual sequence — what goes in first, what decisions can wait, and what beginners consistently get wrong.

Read the guide →
Save your money

What you don't need yet

Beginners get pressured to buy a lot of stuff that doesn't help them play better. Here's what we'd skip on day one.

  • A diesel air heater — A $50 Mr. Heater handles mild-cold nights. Diesel heaters ($150–400 for Chinese clones, $2,000+ for Webasto or Espar) are for full-time winter use. Buy after your first few trips and you know how cold you're actually camping.
  • A fully plumbed sink — A 3-gallon water jug and a hand-pump spray faucet is a perfectly functional van kitchen. Plumbing adds weight, complexity, and freeze risk. Save it for build #2.
  • Custom CNC cabinetry panels — 2x4 framing and plywood panels look great, build fast, and are easy to modify. CNC kits cost $500–$1,500 and are mostly an aesthetic upgrade over simple lumber construction.
  • A 400Ah battery bank on day one — Start with 100–200Ah and learn what you actually run. Most builders discover they use far less power than they planned for.
  • Flexible solar panels — Tempting because they curve to the roof, but flexible panels degrade faster, run hotter, and fail sooner than rigid panels. Go rigid unless your roof has an unusual shape.
First week

Your first seven days

A short, real plan to get from gear-on-doorstep to actually playing.

  1. Measure your van's interior completely: height, width at the floor, width at the wheel wells, door opening sizes. Write these down and keep them handy for every purchase. · Action
  2. Draw a to-scale floor plan and decide on bed orientation — lengthwise or width-side — before you buy anything. This decision determines everything else. · Action
  3. Order the Maxxair fan so it arrives before your first build weekend — the roof install goes in before ceiling panels close it off. · Buy
  4. Learn the basics of 12V van electrical. The r/vandwellers wiki and Farout Guide have the best beginner wiring walkthroughs. · Learn
  5. Research your specific van model. Transit, ProMaster, Sprinter, and Express all have different wheelwell heights, roof ribs, and insulation quirks. · Action
  6. Order insulation so it arrives before you start framing — you can't frame the walls until insulation is in. · Buy
  7. Install a CO detector and a smoke detector before you sleep in the van. Non-negotiable — propane and diesel heaters both produce carbon monoxide. · Action
FAQ

Common questions

How much does a van conversion cost?

A bare-bones weekend build with basic insulation and a simple bed platform can be done for $1,500–$3,000. A comfortable full-timer build with lithium electrical, a 12V fridge, and a real kitchen runs $6,000–$12,000. High-end custom builds with diesel heat, premium fixtures, and custom cabinetry reach $15,000–$25,000+.

What van model should I convert?

The Ford Transit and Ram ProMaster are the most popular for good reason — they're the tallest full-size cargo vans (you can stand up straight inside a high-roof), have the most build community support, and are available used everywhere. Mercedes Sprinter is excellent but expensive to repair. On a tight budget, a Chevy Express or Ford E-Series converts well and is underestimated.

How long does a van conversion take?

A focused first build takes 4–8 weekends of full days. The longest phases are insulation (1–2 days), framing (2–3 days), and electrical (1–3 days depending on complexity). Most builders spread across 3–6 months of weekend sessions, making decisions and learning as they go.

Do I need to hire an electrician?

For 12V DC van electrical work — which is most of a van build — no. The community has excellent resources and the low voltage makes mistakes survivable rather than deadly. For any 120V AC wiring, consult someone qualified. Most van builds are entirely 12V and never touch AC.

What's the best insulation for a van?

3M Thinsulate SM600L for walls and ceiling — it handles condensation correctly by letting moisture pass through rather than trapping it. Rigid foam board under the floor. Great Stuff spray foam to seal all gaps. Avoid fiberglass batts directly against metal walls — they trap moisture and grow mold.

Is it legal to live in a van?

Van living isn't illegal, but overnight parking is restricted in many places. The community calls it stealth camping — parking in residential streets, big box store lots, and industrial areas. Key rules: don't stay in the same spot more than a couple of nights, keep the van looking unremarkable. BLM land, campgrounds, and a Harvest Hosts membership solve most of it.

Going further

Where to next

Related hobbies

Browse by category

Authoritative sources

  • r/vandwellers — The main van conversion community. The wiki has excellent electrical guides, build FAQs, and van model-specific resources.
  • Farout Guide — Deep technical tutorials covering van electrical, insulation, and model-specific builds for ProMaster, Transit, and Sprinter.
  • Gnomad Home — Comprehensive DIY build tutorials — one of the most-cited first-build resources on the internet.
  • ProMaster Forum — Model-specific community for Ram ProMaster builds. Best resource if that's your van.
  • Nate Murphy (YouTube) — The most thorough van electrical video series for beginners. Watch the wiring walkthrough before you buy a wire.
  • Eamon & Bec (YouTube) — Popular van build and van life channel. Good for build inspiration and a realistic picture of full-time van life.
Teal van parked with scenic mountain and lake view.

Photo by Lorenzo Moreno on Unsplash

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