Beginner's guide

So you're getting into welding

Welding turns you into someone who can build things that last. The gear investment is real — $600 to $1,500 for a proper starter kit — but so is the payoff. MIG welding is the entry point: it's forgiving, fast to learn, and every skill you build there transfers. Here's exactly what to buy, in what order, and what to skip.

By Colin B. · Published May 30, 2026 · Last reviewed May 30, 2026

The 60-second version

If you only buy 3 things to start:

  1. Lincoln Electric Easy MIG 140 — Lincoln's go-to beginner MIG welder — 120V, dual-process, and backed by the best support in the industry.
  2. Lincoln Electric Viking 1740 — Auto-darkening helmet that flips dark in 1/25,000 of a second. Don't cheap out on the helmet.
  3. Lincoln Electric Traditional MIG Gloves — Lincoln leather welding gloves — protection without killing your dexterity at the gun.
Budget total
$600
Typical total
$950
A MIG welder, auto-darkening helmet, gloves, jacket, wire, and gas runs $600–$1,500. The machine is the biggest line item — buy once from a name brand.
At a glance

Our top pick in each category

The fastest path through this guide — each best-starter pick by category. Scroll for the budget and upgrade alternatives.

CategoryTop pickPriceWhere to buy
MIG WelderLincoln ElectricLincoln Electric Easy MIG 140$$$ See on Amazon →
Welding HelmetLincoln ElectricLincoln Electric Viking 1740$$ See on Amazon →
Protective GearLincoln ElectricLincoln Electric Traditional MIG Gloves$ See on Amazon →
Wire & ConsumablesLincoln ElectricLincoln Electric NR-211-MP .030" Flux-Core Wire$ See on Amazon →
Workshop EssentialsIRWINIRWIN VISE-GRIP Locking C-Clamp Set$ See on Amazon →
Before you buy anything

A few things worth knowing first

Start with MIG, specifically flux-core if you want to skip the gas cylinder. Stick welding looks cheaper up front, but the technique is harder to learn — and TIG is an entirely separate skill set that takes months to get clean beads. Learn MIG first. Everything else builds from there.

Buy a name-brand welder. The used Craigslist machine or the no-name Amazon welder may work fine — but the internal components are a lottery, the duty cycles are optimistic on the spec sheet, and there's no service network when something goes wrong. Lincoln Electric and Hobart are the two brands worth buying as a beginner.

Your workspace needs ventilation before you strike an arc. Welding fumes are genuinely toxic — not 'wear a mask' toxic, but 'open the door, run the exhaust fan, step outside between welds' toxic. A shop fan pulling fumes away from your face costs $30 and should be in place before your machine arrives.

The gear

What you actually need

person welding on metal inside lighted building

Photo by Kyle Levesque on Unsplash

MIG Welder

Your welder is the decision that shapes everything else. The big choice for beginners isn't brand — it's process. Flux-core (gasless) requires nothing but wire and works outdoors on dirty metal. Gas-shielded MIG produces cleaner welds and less spatter but adds a cylinder to your setup. Most beginners should start flux-core and add gas later. Stick welding is a separate beast — more technique-intensive than either MIG variant, better saved for later. Buy a 140-amp, 120V machine from Lincoln or Hobart; it runs on household current and handles everything a beginner builds.

MIG Welder — what's the difference?

A few common shapes, each making a different trade.

Flux-Core (Gasless)

No gas cylinder needed. Forgiving of dirty or rusty metal.

Wire
E71T-GS, .030"–.035"
Gas
None required
Spatter
Moderate

Best for Beginners, outdoor work, budget-limited setups

Tradeoff More spatter and slag cleanup than gas-shielded MIG

↓ See our pick
MIG (Gas-Shielded)

Cleaner welds, less spatter. Requires CO2/argon cylinder.

Wire
ER70S-6, .023"–.035"
Gas
75% Argon / 25% CO2
Spatter
Low

Best for Cleaner aesthetics, thinner metal, indoor shop work

Tradeoff Gas cylinder adds $80–$150 to startup; needs a regulator

↓ See our pick
Stick (SMAW)

Old-school, durable, works anywhere. Steeper to learn.

Electrode
6013 or 7018 rod
Gas
None
Spatter
High

Best for Structural steel, outdoor repair work, thick metal

Tradeoff Harder to start arcs cleanly; not recommended as your first process

Best starter
Lincoln Electric

Lincoln Electric Easy MIG 140

$$$

Lincoln Electric's most popular entry-level machine runs on standard 120V household power and handles both flux-core and gas-shielded wire. The arc stability and build quality are noticeably better than comparable machines, and Lincoln's dealer network spans 3,000+ locations nationwide. Buy it once and it'll still be good when you know what you're doing.

What we like

  • Runs on standard 120V household current — no electrician needed
  • Dual-process: handles flux-core and gas-shielded MIG
  • Lincoln's 3,000+ dealer network for parts and support

What to know

  • 140-amp limit — not for steel over 5/16" thick
  • Basic ground clamp included; upgrade for serious work
Budget pick
Hobart

Hobart Handler 140

$$$

Hobart is the brand Lincoln guards against in the entry-level market — that's a compliment. The Handler 140 runs on 120V, outputs up to 140 amps, and has a reliability reputation that punches above its price. The only meaningful difference from Lincoln is slightly less dealer density in rural areas.

What we like

  • Hobart's legendary reliability at a competitive price
  • Same 140-amp, 120V capability as the Lincoln
  • Solid wire feed speed range for both flux-core and MIG

What to know

  • Wire speed dial is coarser than Lincoln's at low amperage
  • Smaller dealer network — ordering parts online is more common
Upgrade pick
Lincoln Electric

Lincoln Electric Power MIG 210 MP

$$$$

The step-up pick for anyone who gets serious. Multi-process — MIG, flux-core, stick, and DC TIG — from one machine. Runs on 120V or 240V, so you can use it now on household current and get more output when you wire a proper circuit later. The machine you won't outgrow in a decade.

What we like

  • Multi-process: MIG, flux-core, stick, and DC TIG in one box
  • Dual voltage (120V/240V) grows with your garage electrical
  • 210-amp output handles thicker stock the 140s can't touch

What to know

  • TIG requires a separate torch and argon regulator — extra cost
  • Heavier and bulkier than a single-process 140-amp machine
person wearing blue and black helmet

Photo by Uğur Bozdogan on Unsplash

Welding Helmet

Your helmet is as important as your welder — arc flash without protection causes irreversible eye damage. Auto-darkening helmets flip to dark in milliseconds when the arc strikes, letting you see where you're starting your bead before the light hits. Get one with a variable shade range of at least 9–13 to cover MIG and stick. Cheap fixed-shade helmets are a false economy: you'll either lift them to see your workpiece (dangerous) or weld partially blind.

Best starter
Lincoln Electric

Lincoln Electric Viking 1740

$$

The most recommended auto-darkening helmet in the sub-$200 range, and it's earned that reputation. Reaction time is 1/25,000 second, the 4.75 square-inch viewing area is generous, and the shade range of 9–13 covers everything a beginner welds. Comfortable enough for all-day wear.

What we like

  • 1/25,000-second reaction time — the standard for MIG safety
  • 4.75 sq-in viewing area — larger than most competitors at this price
  • Variable shade 9–13 covers MIG, stick, and plasma cutting

What to know

  • Shade control is inside the shell — set it before you start
  • Solar + battery power means occasional inconsistency in dim shops
Budget pick
YesWelder

YesWelder True Color Solar Helmet

$

The budget pick that's actually good. True color lens technology gives you a cleaner, more accurate view of your work than the green-tinted lenses on older helmets. Solar-powered with battery backup, comfortable headgear, and usually under $60. Optics are slightly less refined than Lincoln's — not a concern at this stage.

What we like

  • True color lens shows your weld puddle accurately — not green-tinted
  • Under $60 — right for anyone testing the hobby before committing

What to know

  • Headgear ratchet loosens during long sessions — check fit regularly
  • Viewing area is smaller than the Viking 1740
Upgrade pick
Lincoln Electric

Lincoln Electric Viking 3350

$$$$

When you're doing serious work — all-day sessions, overhead welding, tight corners — the 3350 earns its price. The largest viewing area Lincoln makes, fastest reaction time in their lineup, and weight distribution optimized for long wear. The helmet welders graduate to when they're doing this seriously.

What we like

  • Largest viewing area Lincoln makes — critical for overhead work
  • Fastest reaction time in the VIKING lineup, 1/25,000 second
  • Four arc sensors catch side and low-angle starts cleanly

What to know

  • At $300+, overkill for the first year of welding
  • Heavier than entry-level helmets — noticeable on long sessions
person welding wearing welding helmet

Photo by Ahmet Aygur on Unsplash

Protective Gear

Welding throws sparks, UV radiation, and infrared heat at your skin simultaneously. Your gloves and jacket are not optional — unshielded skin two feet from a MIG arc gets a UV burn in under a minute. Leather or FR cotton from wrists to collar. The gear is cheap relative to what you're protecting.

Best starter
Lincoln Electric

Lincoln Electric Traditional MIG Gloves

$

Top-grain leather, long cuff, and the right balance of protection and dexterity. MIG gloves need to let you feel the trigger and position the torch — too thick and you're fumbling, too thin and you're getting burned. Lincoln's standard gloves hit the sweet spot for most welding you'll do in the first year.

What we like

  • Top-grain leather provides heat and spatter protection
  • Long cuff shields the forearm gap — gloves welders actually need

What to know

  • Leather stiffens over time — condition periodically
  • Less dexterity than thinner TIG gloves, though right for MIG
Specialty pick
Lincoln Electric

Lincoln Electric FR Cotton Welding Jacket

$$

A flame-resistant cotton jacket covers the burns and UV exposure you don't think about until you've had them. Heavy denim works in a pinch, but a proper welding jacket keeps collar and cuffs tight where sparks find gaps. Lincoln's cloth jacket is the right weight for garage welders — light enough for summer, serious enough for all-day sessions.

What we like

  • FR cotton rated to resist ignition from welding sparks
  • Lighter than leather — wearable in warmer shop conditions

What to know

  • Cotton won't stop heavy spatter as well as a leather jacket
  • Needs proper laundering — regular detergent degrades FR treatment

Wire & Consumables

Your welder eats wire, tips, and occasionally nozzles. Flux-core wire runs without shielding gas — great for beginners who want to start welding before dealing with a gas cylinder. Solid MIG wire runs cleaner and is what you'll want once you add gas. Buy the right diameter for your machine (140-amp machines use .030") and plan to go through one 2-pound spool learning your beads before switching to 10-pound spools.

Best starter
Lincoln Electric

Lincoln Electric NR-211-MP .030" Flux-Core Wire

$

If you're starting without a gas cylinder — and most beginners do — this is the wire you want. Lincoln's NR-211-MP runs self-shielded without shielding gas, handles light to medium steel, and is forgiving of surface rust and mill scale. One 2-pound spool will last through your first full learning curve.

What we like

  • No gas cylinder required — just load and start welding
  • Tolerates surface rust and scale better than solid MIG wire

What to know

  • More spatter than solid wire — more cleanup after each weld
  • Polarity must be swapped if you switch to solid MIG wire
Specialty pick
Hobart

Hobart .030" ER70S-6 MIG Wire

$

Once you add shielding gas, switch to solid wire. ER70S-6 produces cleaner welds, far less spatter, and works on thinner metal without burn-through. The .030" diameter is right for a 140-amp machine. One 10-pound spool lasts a long time once you graduate past flux-core.

What we like

  • Cleaner welds and far less spatter than flux-core wire
  • Works on thinner metal — flux-core can blow through light gauge

What to know

  • Requires shielding gas — won't work without a running cylinder
  • Slightly trickier in windy outdoor settings — gas blows away
Specialty pick
Compatible with Lincoln/Miller

CGA-580 Argon/CO2 Dual-Gauge Regulator

$$

You'll need this as soon as you switch to gas-shielded MIG. A dual-gauge regulator with CGA-580 fitting works with the argon/CO2 mix cylinders available at every welding supply in the US. Confirm the CGA-580 inlet before ordering — it's the standard for mixed-gas cylinders at Airgas, Praxair, and local shops.

What we like

  • Single-stage with flowmeter — everything a beginner needs
  • CGA-580 inlet fits standard argon/CO2 cylinders nationwide

What to know

  • Cylinder not included — budget $50–$100/year for rental plus fills
  • Stick with Lincoln or Harris; noname regulators develop leaks
a welding helmet sitting on top of a workbench

Photo by Jan de Keijzer on Unsplash

Workshop Essentials

A welder without clamps and a grinder is half a shop. Clamps hold your metal in position while you tack — the most common beginner mistake is trying to weld something that's moving. An angle grinder cleans metal before welding (bare steel welds better than painted or scaled surfaces) and cleans the bead afterward. Neither is expensive, and both will outlast several welders.

Best starter
IRWIN

IRWIN VISE-GRIP Locking C-Clamp Set

$

Four locking C-clamps across four sizes covers 90% of what a beginner builds. IRWIN's VISE-GRIP clamps are the working-tool standard: malleable iron bodies, reliable locking action, and they hold through welding heat without slipping. Get the multi-size set so you have the right jaw capacity for flat stock and tubing alike.

What we like

  • Locking action holds the joint even when heat tries to shift the metal
  • Mixed sizes in one set — covers flat stock and small tubing

What to know

  • Jaw pads will mar uncoated steel — acceptable for welding work
  • Locking plier clamps, not deep-reach C-clamps; both are worth having
Upgrade pick
DEWALT

DEWALT 4.5-Inch Angle Grinder

$$

You'll use this before and after every weld: before to grind away mill scale and rust, after to clean the bead. A 4.5-inch disc grinder from a name brand is the right tool. DEWALT's is compact, durable, and widely available. Don't buy a no-name grinder — cheap grinders seize mid-job at the worst time.

What we like

  • 4.5" disc size — the standard for welding prep and cleanup
  • DEWALT build quality survives daily shop use without drama

What to know

  • Corded only on the basic model — add a 25-ft extension to move freely
  • Sparks travel 10+ feet; clear your workspace before grinding
Specialty pick
Strong Hand Tools

Strong Hand Tools Magnetic Welding Squares

$$

Magnetic squares hold your metal at perfect 90-degree angles while you tack — transformative for frames, boxes, and any project with right angles. Strong Hand Tools makes the most used magnetic welding aids on the market. Once you build your first square frame with these, you won't weld without them.

What we like

  • Holds right angles hands-free — essential for square frames
  • Industrial-grade magnets hold steel tubing and flat stock reliably

What to know

  • Reduced hold on thin-gauge material — test before trusting
  • Attracts metal chips if left near grinding work
Going deeper

Your first 20 hours of welding

Your first twenty hours of welding will produce ugly beads, occasional stuck arcs, and at least one moment of genuine satisfaction. Here's what actually happens — stage by stage — and what to focus on so the frustration has a point.

Read the guide →
Save your money

What you don't need yet

Beginners get pressured to buy a lot of stuff that doesn't help them play better. Here's what we'd skip on day one.

  • TIG welder — TIG is a separate discipline — finer welds, but months of practice to get clean beads. Master MIG first.
  • Plasma cutter — Great tool, but a separate skill. An angle grinder handles most cuts while you're learning to weld.
  • Welding table with fixture holes — A $40 sheet of 1/4" steel plate on sawhorses does the same job. Buy a real table after year one.
  • Respirator with welding filters — Ventilation solves 90% of the fume problem for light welding. Focus on airflow first.
  • Stick welder as your first machine — Stick is cheaper to buy, harder to learn. The MIG path is faster and produces better work earlier.
First week

Your first seven days

A short, real plan to get from gear-on-doorstep to actually playing.

  1. Order your welder first — it takes the longest to arrive and is the bottleneck for everything else. · Buy
  2. Set up ventilation before your first arc. A shop fan pulling air away from your face is the minimum. · Action
  3. Practice your first beads on scrap metal — old angle iron, shelf brackets, or a steel plate from a local steel yard. Practice metal before project metal. · Action
  4. Learn the four variables every weld problem traces back to: wire feed speed, voltage, travel speed, and gun angle. · Learn
  5. Make your first real project something simple: a picture frame, a small bracket, or two pieces of steel welded at an L. Finish something. · Action
  6. Join r/Welding for feedback on your bead photos — the community is blunt, helpful, and will tell you exactly what your settings are doing wrong. · Learn
FAQ

Common questions

MIG, stick, or TIG — which should I learn first?

MIG, without question. It's the most forgiving process, produces consistent results fastest, and the skills transfer to stick and TIG when you're ready. Stick is cheaper to start but harder to learn. TIG is exacting and takes months to master. MIG first, everything else later.

How much does it cost to start welding?

Budget $600–$950 for the core kit: welder ($400–$600), auto-darkening helmet ($100–$200), gloves and jacket ($60–$100), wire and consumables ($40–$80). A gas cylinder adds $80–$150 but isn't required if you start with flux-core wire.

Can I weld in my garage on standard 120V power?

Yes — a 140-amp MIG welder like the Lincoln Easy MIG 140 or Hobart Handler 140 runs on standard 120V/20A household power. A dedicated 20-amp circuit is ideal. Upgrading to 240V later lets you run more powerful machines with longer duty cycles.

Is welding dangerous? What safety gear do I need?

The three real hazards are arc flash (eye damage from UV), fume inhalation, and fire from sparks. An auto-darkening helmet handles eye safety, ventilation handles fumes, and clearing combustibles from your workspace handles fire risk. Follow those three rules and home welding is genuinely manageable.

How long until I can weld decently?

Expect ugly welds for the first four to six hours. Consistent flat-position MIG beads by around ten hours. Simple structural joints — frames, brackets, brackets — in thirty to fifty hours of practice. Overhead and vertical welding are separate skills that take longer.

Do I need to take a class?

Not at the start. YouTube (Welding Tips and Tricks, Lincoln Electric's channel) plus practice on scrap gets most people to functional welding without a class. A community college welding class is worth taking around month three — by then you have context to absorb what they're teaching.

Going further

Where to next

Browse by category

Authoritative sources